4kq/coupe front control arm/balljoint/CV removal procedure (was HELP! ..)

[Ben Swann]

Please be careful using improper technique as below of using pipe on
breaker bar below when not at exactly 90 deg.   I wached a guy slice his
hand nearly off when the socket gave way.

Yes you can remove the ball joint without removing the other stuff, but you
will be forcing stuff and risking your skin.  removing the inner control
arm bolts will help by giving anoter degree of freedom.  I expect you
should have been able to get it out at this point.  Removing the axle bolt
give even one more degree of freedom, and with the right tools takes
seconds.

Yes you can struggle for hours by "shortcutting your jobs.  I have done
this, and you can remove the control arm without removeing axle nut.  What
I am pointing out is that in trying to shortcut, I ended up wasting time
overall.

If you plan to do this once and only once, then maybe it is not worth going
out and buying the correct tools and sockets.

Just my experienced opinion on DIY for many years.

Ben

On Thursday, July 25, 2002 11:21 PM, Brady Moffatt
[SMTP:bradym at sympatico.ca] wrote:
> Hi All/Ben,
>
> Thanks for all the helpful advice.
>
> I gave myself lots of space to work in by taking off the brakes and
backing
> plates. Everything worked well once I cut off the backing plates (they
were
> held on by small round blobs of rust that used to be 10mm bolts) and used
> the BFH and a 2x4 to push the arms off the ball joint tab.
>
> Comments sprinkled throughout below.
>
> Cheers,
> Brady
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ben Swann" <bswann at worldnet.att.net>
>
>
> > Brady,
> >
> > Comments below.
> >
>
> Yup.
>
> > In short,  I have tried shortcutting the job of replacing various
> > suspension components, or like when I replace a CV boot.  What I have
> found
> > is it is just best to "cut to the chase" and just remove the control
arm
> > entirely.  Then it is easy to service the various components.  You can
> also
> > inspect the bushings - I had one set just fall out of the control arm
when
> > I removed it as they were wasted.
> >
>
> I don't understand what I'm "shortcutting" by taking out just the control
> arm, not the ball joint or axle shaft. All I want to do is put the arms
into
> my running 4kq. The parts car I've just taken them out of had new
urethane
> bushings.
>
> > My "just do it" procedure now is:
> >
> > 1) Loosten axle nut - use long steel tube over breaker bar and 30mm
> socket.
> >
>
> Didn't touch it. Don't own a socket bigger than 27mm anyways!
>
> > 2) loosten lug nuts - may need to use that steel bar here too if the
> wheels
> > have not been off for awhile.
> >
>
> Yup.
>
> > 3) Jack up car and use jack stand for security.
> >
>
> Of course I did!
>
> > 4) remove lugs and wheel
> >
>
> Yup.
>
> > 5) remove axle nut entirely
> >
>
> Nope. See above.
>
> > 6) remove upper nut on swaybar
> >
>
> Actually, I removed the lower one (13mm).
>
> > 7) remove ball joint bolt - 17mm wrench on bolt head and 17mm socket on
> > nut.
> >
>
> I removed the ball joint tab plate with 2 studs and their associated nuts
> (all 17mm I think, or was it 15) and left the ball joint alone.
>
> > 8) remove inner control arm bolts.  17mm socket on bolt head - various
> > extensions may be required - slight difference between quattro and
coupe.
> >  Need to use offset 17mm box end wrench on the nut inside of the
control
> > arm.
> >
>
> I managed to get a 4 foot pipe over the ratchet handle on the control arm
> bolt heads, broke them loose, then used a normal open ended 17mm wrench
to
> hold the nut. Obviously I had to go in at an angle, but it worked well.
It
> naturally wedges itself quite quickly, and only popped out a couple of
> times. No stripping either. The nuts remained fully clothed.
>
> > 9) Remove control arm, starting with inner side first, then you can
> > manipulate control arm so it slides off control arm.  BFH may be
required.
> >
>
> BFH and 2x4 were very much required!
>
> >  Careful not to damage the CV boot, or ball joint boot(if not already
> > damaged).
> >
>
> The rest is N/A for now, but nonetheless good to know.
>
> > 10) If replacing or repairing inner CV/axle, remove CV joint bolts.
Outer
> > CV boot can be replaced with axle attached as a few well placed blows
with
> > BFH will knock the out CV joint off easily.
> >
> > 11) Tie rod end r/r is easier at this point, and this may be a good
time
> to
> > service the brakes, as everything is easier to deal with.
> >
> > 12) Assemble in reverse order.  Complete time is between one an two
hours
> > if all parts on hand.
> >
>
> Well, if I do it again, maybe. It took me a lot longer. I'm letting a
> mechanic with a lift and torches and big pry bars and a RBFH get the
control
> arms off my running 4kq. I bet they've never been out from the shape the
> bushings are in. Then all he has to do is pop the new arms in with
> pre-mounted bushings!
>
> > Since I reiterated these steps from the top of my head, if I missed
> > anything, or overlooked something, feel free to comment or correct.
> >
> > Ben
>
>
>
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