FW: Fuse Amperage??? for a fuse between the battery and the car.

[Bernard Littau]

> I like the 100-120 amp fuse/breaker idea - remember, there are times,
> theoretically, when you might want to dump your full alternator output
> (90-130A) into the battery via that circuit.

Your battery will never take that kind of current.  In fact, it will self
limit to way less than that at 14 volts.  Anything over what makes the
battery happy (in terms of volts) will yield mostly 02 and H2.  This is why
we like the under seat batteries to be of the vented type :-)

No car manufacturer runs a fuse between the battery and the starter.  Sure,
you can get away with it, but why?  What's the point?

The original poster had a kill switch near the battery in the engine
compartment, where the battery originally was installed.  The original query
was about moving the battery, and protecting the new wiring.  Just add
another kill switch close to the battery.  I've seen plenty of rally cars
that have a kill switch the driver can get to, and another that someone
outside the car can get to.

If you have a real good 200 amp load on the 175 amp fuse, the 175 amp fuse
will blow, and likely faster than you can get to a kill switch.  On the
other hand, a 174 amp load will go all day against a 175 amp fuse.  There
are advantages and disadvantages to both fuses and kill switches.

Given the worry was about the insulation around the main wire as it goes
through the firewall becoming degraded, my money is on a less than 175 amp
full short.  Use the kill switch.

Best,

Bernard Littau
Woodinville, WA
'88 5ktq