assembling the MC
Darrell Boehler
midwesty at midwest.net
Sun Mar 3 07:18:51 EST 2002
Hi Brandon,
The only discernable friction your engine should have during assembly is the piston rings against the cylinder walls. Things to
check are the arrow on the pistons, the forged marks on the rods and rod caps point to the front. See Bentley 13.8. (The little
pimples on the rods and caps toward the belts) . You need to find this anomaly in a big way before you continue.
I speak from little experience on the i5 (I have just started reassembly on my first) but a fair amount on american v8s and
vw boxers.
Also note the bentley states the rod bolts should be replaced. Not sure how important this is on the i5 so I bought new ones. I
have bought new and I have reused originals on vw boxer engines with no problems. If you use the originals it is probably not a good
idea to restretch them. Any old timers out there is there a list position on whether to replace rod bolts and nuts ??
Seems to be little activity on this list about bottom end rebuilds, this is probably a good thing. My mc had 150k miles and
the mains bearings checked ok 0.005 inch (plastigage) but the rod bearing were worn. I am replacing them all. The rod and main
bearing clearances now checkout like a new engine, 0.002- 0.003 inch on both rods and mains.
Best of luck with your quest,
Darrell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brandon Adams" <quattrorunner at lvcm.com>
To: <quattro at audifans.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 2:36 AM
Subject: assembling the MC
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--
[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ]
Hey all, just putting the short block back together and after replacing the rings and honing the walls (didn't change the bearings.
Only 70000 miles on engine) I'm having a hard time with what I feel is too much friction when I tighten rod caps or bearing caps. I
use a wrench w about 1 foot length. I cant even turn it and it's not even torqued yet. I used redline assembly lube on everything
that moves or slides. Before I tighten caps, the pistons move fine, after I tighten, no move. is this normal? I know the engine
isn't meant to turn over by hand but wait till the heads on and there in compression! I won't go further till Im sure the things
done right. Any BTDT? Give me a pointer. Thanks Brandon Adams
--
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