Seat heater repair success?
ed armstrong
edshred2000 at yahoo.com
Fri Mar 15 11:40:08 EST 2002
One could make some resistance measurements with an
Ohm meter on a repaired section compared to an
unbroken section of the same length. I would think
they should be within a a couple 100 ohms of each
other.
-ed
--- james accordino <ssgacc at yahoo.com> wrote:
> I'm no electrican't, but isn't the only thing that
> causes excessive heat resistance? Isn't that what
> actually makes the seat heaters, and baseboard
> electric, and dryers work? There must be way too
> much
> resistance at the splice? No?
>
> Jim Accordino
>
> --- David Head <v8q at bellsouth.net> wrote:
> > I think the real issue is good contact between the
> > two wires - you could use a
> > silver non insulated butt connector on the twisted
> > connection too.
> >
> > Frank Stadmeyer wrote:
> >
> > > Doyt,
> > > It worked for me.
> > > I repaired my seat heater at the beginning of
> the
> > winter and it's been
> > > working ever since. Granted I only use the car
> on
> > weekends, but it's every
> > > weekend. I was leery of the fix but I took the
> > seat apart, found the break,
> > > twisted the wires together and soldered them
> > together. I was surprised at
> > > how well the solder flowed after reading some of
> > the reports of difficulty.
> > > The repair never got hotter than the rest of the
> > seat and seems to be
> > > fine. Maybe it was the solder I used but I
> don't
> > remember it being
> > > anything special, just electronic type. I made
> > sure the iron tip was well
> > > tinned and clean and that was about it.
> > >
> > > HTH
> > >
> > > At 11:18 AM 3/13/02 -0500, you wrote:
> > > >Two years ago, after reading everything in the
> > archives, I took apart 4
> > > >front seats and found at least two breaks in
> > each seat element. I then
> > > >twisted and soldered each break. None of the
> > repairs is functional today.
> > > >Right away, each seat developed hot spots at
> the
> > repair points, and the
> > > >heating elements failed soon after.
> > > >
> > > >The hot spots were so hot that you would want
> to
> > remove your hand after a
> > > >short period of testing.
> > > >
> > > >My conclusion/hypothesis was that the
> > Nichrome(?)resistance wire didn't
> > > >take well to soldering, and some form of
> > twisting/crimping/clamping alone
> > > >would have been a better way to try doing the
> > repairs.
> > > >
> > > >I'd like to hear from people who have repaired
> > (not replaced) seat heaters
> > > >and have had them work without hot spots for
> long
> > periods after the repair.
> > > >There is adequate information about taking out
> > the seats and getting off
> > > >the seat covers, and getting them back on
> again.
> > But I don't remember much
> > > >about reports of long-term survival after the
> > repair attempts.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> > > >At 07:26 AM 3/13/2002 -0700, you wrote:
> > > >>I am trying to replace a seat heater and have
> > been offered this part #
> > > >>4A0963555B. I cannot get my family Bible to
> > recognize this #.
> > > >>
> > > >>I want to use it on seat and back rest of a SQ
> > in case my soldering
> > > >>abilities cannot match the element breakage I
> > expect to find.
> > > >>
> > > >>Anyone?
> > > >>
> > > >>Colin
> > >
> > > Frank
> >
>
>
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