Why are my window switches staying on?

[David Head]

See if it goes out when the door is opened...

Huw Powell wrote:

> > Got home late yesterday, and noticed a problem when I turned off the
> > car.  Was driving the 86' 4kcsq, and when I shut off the ignition, and
> > took out the key, the lights on the window switches remained on, as well
> > as the lights on the sunroof switch.
> > It didn't keep power to the switches to actually move the window
> > regulators, but if I tried the switches, the lights went out while I had
> > the switch depressed, but came right back on when I let go.  Also, if I
> > activated the blower fan switch, or the rear defrost switch, the lights
> > would go out until the switches were back in the off position.
>
> There are a few possible sources of your problem.
>
> Start with the Load Reduction Relay (or "X" relay, named the current
> track it supplies), position 5 in your fusebox.  It is "on" when the
> ignition is in the "run" position, and "off" when the key is "off" or in
> the "start" position.  This relieves your battery of the load of the
> items on the X circuit while cranking, and also lowers the current load
> on the ignition switch while running.
>
> These items are on the "X" buss:
>
> radiator thermo switch via fuse 15
> fresh air fan switch via fuse 17
> defroster (& seat heater controls) via fuse 16
> power window system, two connections, both unfused (but there should be
> a circuit breaker outside the fuse box in the aux relay panel).
>
> So....
>
> Either
>
> 1. your LRR is stuck on
> 2. one of the components running off it (or the ignition "on" setting),
> that also has battery power, is shorting internally
> 3. your ignition switch is not properly turning "off"
>
> I'd check the relay first.  The other prime culprit (under "2" above) is
> the headlight switch or connector.
>
> It sounds like a low current leak, ie a very small short, since turning
> those other things on knocks the lights out - and I bet they don;t run
> when you turn them on, either.
>
> >
> > I think on some Audis, maybe yours, you are supposed to have power to the
> > windows and other stuff until you open the driver door.  Then they turn off.
>
> not on a 4000 (pre '88 80/90)
>
> > You want to try something cool?  Leave your ignition off, turn the headlights on, and
> > then pull the "flash to pass" stick back.  This will toggle what my friends and I call
> > "phantom power" or something (actually I forget what we called it).  You will have
> > power for as long as you hold back the stick.  Pretty cool.
>
> No, running accessories off one terminal of the headlight switch will
> not be cool, it will be hot, and seriously hasten the demise of an
> already weak link in your cars wiring system.  This is not recommended!
>
> > I don't know what would happen if you relayed your headlights.
>
> It would still work, and still be unadvisable.
>
> --
> Huw Powell
>
> http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/
>
> http://www.humanthoughts.org/