Finally got this one done, the secret being the right crowbar and not
just a domestic hammer but a BF three/four/five pound one. Thanks to
everyone for their suggestions incl Messrs Thackrah, Larson,Mruss.Graber and
Yetman
For the sake of the Archives, here's a brief write up. This assumes
that you have a complete new cylinder as the old one may get trashed.
Disconnect Battery (Safety Reasons),
Drain clutch fluid
Disconnect reverse light wiring and move out of way
Disconnect rad fan wiring and move out of way.
Disconnect and remove flexy hose to slave cylinder
Remove slave cylinder bleed nipple (to prevent it getting damaged)
Remove retaining wire clip from roll pin. (this pin appears to be
involved in keeping the slave cylinder in a certain position by supporting
the hydraulic hose rather than retaining the roll pin - you'll see what I
mean if you ever do this job!)
Using a medium weght pin punch (max diameter 5mm) punch out roll pin.
Slide slave cylinder out rearwards
Fail to complete above step. Have a good laugh.
Soak entire penetrant once a day for three days
Go out and get a two foot crowbar with a cranked chisel end.
Remove one bolt from steering rack/tie bar assembly (if neceesary for
access)
Do not proceed without having removed the hydraulic hose, as it is more
fragile than it looks. (ask me how I know)
Carefully thread this through the power steering hoses so that the
chisel end fits against the hydraulic union boss on the slave cylinder and
the other end is somewhere just above the top of the radiator.
Take very careful aim and whack crowbar.
If above step fails get a bigger hammer
You will eventually succeed if you use this method, but it has to be the
right crowbar and it has to be a heavy hammer. With an ordinary one I could
not coordinate steadying the bar and whacking it with enought force. With a
bigger hammer I could.
Clean entire area, particularly the housing for the slave cylinder, -
for which i used 80 grit paper and wd40.
Get your new slave cylinder and test fit the hydraulic hose to it. Put
some copper anti-seize on the fitting surface and top that off with a smear
off engine oil.
Check roll pin and remove any burrs.
Find a drift/drill bit or similar with an o.d. of around 4.8 mm
Insert new slave cylinder. If new cylinder does not fit snugly and
without force you have a problem.
Secure cylinder by sliding drift throught roll pin housing, then insert
roll pin and drift into place, check carefully that the slave cylinder stays
in position as you do this.
Reconnect clutch flexy hose.
Replace retaining wire clip through the roll pin.
Remove and reseal/replace master cylinder if you haven't already done so
Refill and bleed system. NB the clutch pedal has an over centre spring
so the first few presses will likely need returning by hand. Don't try
bleeding the system without always closing the nipple at the bottom of the
stroke and then returning the pedal to the top of its stroke.
Reconnect all that stuff you disconnected!
Enjoy your clutch action for another 10-15 years.
rob