CGT Clutch Slave Cylinder R&R Success

[rob hod]

    Hi Jim,
    A man after my own heart as they say. I regard all of my cars as keepers
so when doing a job I always assume that
I'll be back that way sometime!

    A couple of tidbits I forgot to mention;
    On day three (IIRC) of the 'penetrant soaking program'  a friend in the
office suggested that I try either lemon juice or maybe alloy wheel cleaner
as an agent to break down the alloy/steel chemical bond that you mention.
When I got in that night I raided the kitchen and half emptied a squeezy
lemon juice bottle over the area. Of course I have no idea if it contributed
at all!
    Another thing, I squirted a lot of penetrant and juice into the hole
that the roll pin came out of. Its the best access point to the surfaces
that matter, better that just squirting round the back of the cylinder, and
the annular groove in the cylinder forms a reservoir for penetrants/lemon
juice that can seep into surrounding problem areas over a few days.

    Finally when the cylinder did move I noticed that the whole area was wet
with a muddy gunk, presumably comprising steel/alloy salts, lemon juice,
Plus-gas and old hydraulic fluid. Yum!. The point being that it looks like 5
days of dousings had actually pentrated all over and not left a dry spot.
    I think thats the secret, long and repeated soakings. Oh and the BFH!

    And a final thought. If the cylinder was made of alloy maybe it wouldn't
have welded in so badly, but it certainly wouldn't have been able to take
the pounding I gave it around the union boss, Catch 22 maybe?

    Cheers

rob
----- Original Message -----
From: "james accordino" <ssgacc at yahoo.com>
To: "rob hod" <rob3 at hod3.fsnet.co.uk>
Cc: "audi list" <quattro at audifans.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2002 1:12 AM
Subject: Re: CGT Clutch Slave Cylinder R&R Success


> Nice writeup.  I had the newer bolt type, but what
> caught my eye was something few people mention.  WHY
> it got glued in there in the first place.  Not keeping
> the car?  Don't even bother reading on further.  BUT,
> if you are keeping it, or "think" you might, "clean
> the entire area, particularly the housing for the
> slave cylinder".  VERY important (IMHO).  I used a
> wire brush typically used to clean copper fittings in
> plumbing before soldering.  Cheap and readily
> available.  Also-"put some copper anti-seize on the
> fitting surface".  THE most important.  That damned
> dissimilar metal corrosion is what welded it in there.
>  IF you ever had to do this again wouldn't you love to
> be able to pull it out with two fingers?  It takes 10
> minutes of prep and $5.?  I checked mine after 3+ yrs.
> and 50k miles and I could have pulled it right out.
> Easy.  No whacking or whatever.  Just something to
> think about.
>
> Good job Rob.
> Jim Accordino
>
> --- rob hod <rob3 at hod3.fsnet.co.uk> wrote:
> >
> >     Finally got this one done, the secret being the
> > right crowbar and not
> > just a domestic hammer but a BF three/four/five
> > pound one.
>
> >      Clean entire area, particularly the housing for
> > the slave cylinder, -
> > for which i used 80 grit paper and wd40.
> >     Get your new slave cylinder and test fit the
> > hydraulic hose to it.  Put
> > some copper anti-seize on the fitting surface and
> > top that off with a smear
> > off engine oil.
>
>
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