New member with bad problem

[Tigran Varosyan]

Hi Aaron. The vac lines under there are a mess. Connectors cracked, lines
missing, lines buried, melted cracked etc. At first I tried to straighten it
out but I am having A LOT of trouble finding decent documentation and
diagrams for this car online. For now I just threw that stuff aside. All vac
lines and vac line ports on the intake are blocked off now. All I have is
the idle stabilizer thing that bypasses air around the throttle plates.
Everything else other than the brake booster is blocked. At this point I am
trying to get the engine to run correctly. I am not worried about
fine-tuning the spark timing advance or any of that.

Far as the pre-filter it cannot be the cause of this. I am getting 110+ PSI
at the fuel distributor and a very good flow. That is not the problem.

Right now I have the fuel distributor is a giant sink. I am trying to take
it apart and got everything off of it. However it does not want to come
apart... Anyone know if there is a trick to making it open so I can get to
the distributor cylinder? I can see a rubber gasket in there but its like
there is something else holding the 2 parts together...

Tyson

-----Original Message-----
From: Aaron Gibson [mailto:crankshaft at adelphia.net]
Sent: Sunday, November 24, 2002 9:27 PM
To: Tigran Varosyan
Subject: Re: New member with bad problem


Hi,

You might want to try bypassing the white plastic pre-filter. follow the
rubber hose up stream of the fuel pump to the tank
it should be in that area. I've had them clog before and cause wierd
running problems. Another possible problem is a
Vacuum leak. Check every hose very carefully especially the intake boot.
I small leak in the intake will really make it run lean which isnt very
helpfull when its cold. I'm sure you looked ,but its usually the simple
stuff that gets ignored. The fuel pres.
sounds about right so that should be fine.

Aaron

Start with the vacuum leaks


Tigran Varosyan wrote:

>Hi all. I am sorry to stumble in like this but I stranded for the first
time
>by my Audi. I blew a motor on my primary car (Mitsu 3000GT) replacing that
>now and using the Audi as a runabout. It has 192k miles on it and has never
>had any major issues so this came as shock at the worst possible time!
>
>I am a pretty mechanical guy and had this happened on the Mitsu I am sure I
>would have it diagnosed within a few hours. The 3000GT International club
is
>awesome and very active with many guys who know those cars. I also have a
>5000-page manual on the car... With the Audi Im lost. I only learned today
>that it has no ECU and that Air/Fuel ratios are controlled by a mechanical
>plunger in the fuel distributor... Never even heard of that! I know
>carbureted cars pretty well, and I know my 3kgt like the back of my hand.
>This Audi seems to be an in-between technology which is alien to me. I am
>willing to learn and I still like my 4k so I hope that someone could help
me
>make heads or tails of my problem....
>
>
>Car:
>85 Audi 4000CS Quattro.
>5 Cyl 2.2L
>Fuel Injected.
>
>Problem: Car starts up, runs for about 10-30 sec in idle or 2-5 sec under
>load and dies. When not moving I can rev the car, the engine sounds fine
>everything is great and then suddenly it sputters and dies. When I try to
>move it, it will run for a very short time. The car needs to sit for 2-4
>minutes before running again. If left to sit longer the engine seems to
work
>a bit longer too.
>
>I have a book (Hayes Manual) for it but its horrible! Its made for EVERY
>model Audi 80-87, so finding stuff for my car is impossible. I spent an
hour
>in the cold rain today looking for the 
warm-up regulator
 in the picture
of
>the book. It finally dawned on me that the pictures in the book are for CIS
>and I have CIS-E which is NOT in the manual!!
>
>Ether way, gas engines are not rocket science. Give it air, fuel,
>compression and a spark at the right times and everything should
function...
>Obviously timing, spark, compression are all there. That leaves us with air
>and fuel and this is where I'm going nuts....
>
>Air filter is ok.
>
>I just got a fuel pressure gauge and connecting it to the fuel distributor
>feed line I get over 110PSI pressure...
>
>The fuel pump is working. It is SUPER loud and I pulled the hose coming out
>of it and it squorted fuel. I also bypassed the fuel pump relay (turned the
>fuel pump on manually) and I get good pressure. I read a lot about if the
>pump makes noise, replace it, but it has been doing that for like 2 years
>now and until few days ago had no problems. It has good pressure and I do
>not want to spend $100-300 on something that is not going to fix my
problem.
>
>Now I am thinking that it may be a malfunctioning "cold start" system of
>some sort. Ether flooding or starving the engine of fuel. I think its fuel
>because even with the throttle plate open and the air box propped open to
>bypass the filter the same thing happens. I found a little 2 paragraph
thing
>on the cold start system in the book for my car and I cannot make heads or
>tails of it. I cannot find the part in the picture under my hood (again CIS
>pic, my CIS-E). The cold start system is made of 3 components. The 
sixth
>injector
 in the manifold, an air valve that works like a modern IAC and
>some sort of 
warm-up bimetal spring on the fuel distributor
 which moves
>the plunger in the air sensor up further than it should be thus making the
>mixture richer.
>
>Do I even have the bimetal thing on my car?? I am going nuts here and this
>has come at a VERY bad time. I have spent every waking hour since Wednesday
>at 3pm working on this and I got work tomorrow. This list has also not been
>cooperating since I have been trying to post since Wednesday night and
>cannot get through!
>
>Anyway, I'm pissed, I'm without a car, I'm completely soaked with gasoline
>and I'm absolutely stuck. HELP!!!
>
>Tyson
>
>
>
>
>