brake bleeding 200q

[Sachelle]

I've got a 90 200q also.

I've bled the brake twice and do it yearly in all my cars. First, you want =
to use high quality stuff. DOT4. I use the Valvoline synthetic. Some use Ca=
strol LMA, while others spend more on the ATE Super Blue. My pick is the Va=
lvoline synthetic. It's good on maintaining seals, low moisture absorbing, =
high boil, good lubricity. It's about $5/qt at Kmart and pep boys. Anyway, =
since you have a manual car, be patient.

Part of this will require a second bleeding and you'll see why.

The clutch requires reverse bleeding, meaning the fluid has to be forced in=
 through a "bleeder" valve. The fluid will go through the slave, into the m=
aster cylinder, then to the brake reservoir.

The easiest way to bleed the clutch slave and master is to attach vacuum ho=
se to the drivers front caliper bleeder (make sure it's clean by pumping af=
ter opening into a scrap piece of hose!), and the other end at the slave cy=
linder on the tranny. Open the caliper valve first, to let some fluid enter=
 the hose. Connect other end to bleeder on slave and open. Now, you pump th=
e brake pedal until you see the bubbles in the master cylinder stop. Close =
the slave cylinder valve and pump the clutch pedal a few times. DON'T PUMP =
THE CLUTCH PEDAL WHILE THE BLEEDER VALVE ON THE SLAVE IS OPEN! If you do, y=
ou'll blow the hose off. Open slave bleeder again and repeat. A few more bu=
bbles may come up. BTW-if you don't want to go crazy and do the double blee=
d, just suck the old fluid out of the master cylinder before you bleed the =
clutch. This will draw the clean fluid into the drivers caliper and through=
 the clutch system. The old fluid goes back into the master cylinder. Suck =
this fluid out a!
gain, add new fluid. Now, your clutch is bled.

Next, the brakes. Start furthest away from the mc, the rr. If the bleeder v=
alves are clogged with debris, you can open them, but no fluid comes out. J=
ust pretend your making a few panic stops. That'll get 'em unclogged, BTDT.=
 Next, lr, pass front, then drivers front (again). You'll do the drivers ag=
ain because there's always some chance of getting air into it while you wer=
e bleeding the clutch. I completely remove the fluid and use about 1-11/4 q=
uarts. Always keep an extra sealed bottle on hand. If you need it (sometime=
s you mess up bleeding), you have it, if not, just return it. While you're =
down there, inspect the hoses, especially the fronts where the clip holds i=
t to the strut housing. A bulge usually develops there, BTDT.

If your bleeder valves are siezed, go easy on them. The funny thing is brea=
kage while slowly wrenching on them, but if you whack them a few times to b=
reak through the corrosion, they open right up without breakage. Just some =
light whacking on the wrench with a light hammer or a ratchet.

Good luck!