re. resolder radiator myself?

[Ben Swann]

Yes - Yesterday.  When experiencing my overheating problem (another
thread), I noticed steam coming out of a hole. So I marked its location.
 Some other areas looked questionable too.

Decided to try my new MAPP gas torch I got from Home Depot for under $40.

The radiator was empty and out of the car.  The solder was melted in
seconds.  Be careful these things get hot fast, much faster than a propane
torch.  All you need to do is touch it for a second with the flame, and the
solder should flow and reseal.  I like the instand on and off these things
have - much easier to use than the propane torch.

I think that the solder is silver solder - needs more heat than lead.
 Anyone care to expound on this?  I fixed my leak, but have never been
shown or told how, so I am always interested in the correct way, ie.  How
do the pros do it?  What solder is used?

If I find that a clogged radiator is my overheating problem, I may want to
put its metal end caps on the other radiator with plastic end caps that I
broke.  Can I do this?

Ben

[I just found the seams on my metal radiator are cracked they're not
leaking that bad, just enough to look wet. I definately don't like
this, however, so is resoldering it myself something that's doable?

I have a propane torch, flux, plumbers solder, and a wire brush. How
would I go about doing this?

I figure one route would be to not remove the tanks at all, just wire
the seams, flux them, them run the torch along the surface to reset
the solder. I do know to heat the metal up enough to avoid a cold
solder joint. The second route that's a little tougher is to remove
the tanks, probably by going in a U shaped, then pulling up on one
side as I go along. Clean the inside, flux it, then resolder.

Anyone btdt?]