CV boot replacement: stripped inner cv joint bolts

[George Selby]

At 02:50 AM 10/28/02, you wrote:
>What works
>as well in the case of the inner CVs, is to cut the bolt's head with a
>sawzall, pull the CV joint out and then remove the bolts with some good of
>vise grip pliers.


I would agree with this.  You are going to replace these bolts anyway,
right? (Even if you do get them off, they will more than likely be very
difficult to re-torque with the stripped heads.)  I managed to get 4 out
the last time I had occasion to remove my axleshafts, and just used a
cut-off wheel to remove the other two heads.  There should be  a flat piece
of metal between every two bolts, and this will protect the axle flange
from damage from the Sawz-All or cut-off wheel.  Once the axleshaft is
removed, the bolts have at least an inch sticking out that you can grab
with pliers or Vise-Grips and they normally come out with no problem with
the tension on them is released.

When you try the triple-square tool on the stripped bolts, try to make sure
two good bolts are in place and tight on either side of the recalcitrant
bolt.  This way there is less tension on the stripped bolt, which will make
it easier to loosen.  My local AutoZone sells the triple square tools in a
set, they have the triple square on one end, and the other is larger, so
you can use a socket or wrench of about 13mm.  Unfortunately, you have to
buy 3 or 4 together, they don't sell them separately.  They work well, if
there is any left teeth at all, they will probably work, especially if you
drive them in with a hammer (the Torx tool usually seems to go in half way
and leave the half the keys left on the bottom of the bolt good, under the
grime.)

George Selby
83 Audi Coupe GT
gselby4x4 at earthlink.net