Fw: In light of recent torque discussion

Duncan Wood quatrro at dmx512.co.uk
Mon Oct 28 20:44:00 EST 2002


Sent: Monday, October 28, 2002 6:14 PM
Subject: In light of recent torque discussion


> Message: 11
> Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 10:06:33 -0600 (CST)
> From: Robert Deis <rdeis at io.com>
> To: quattro at audifans.com
> Subject: In light of recent torque discussion
>
>
> More fuel to the fire:
>
> > ----------
> > From: Steve F
> > Sent: Sunday, October 27, 2002 4:39 PM
> > To: CO DSM
> > Subject: [CoDSM] How to properly torque a bolt; research from top fuel
and
> aerospace LONG
> >
> > Preface: bc of an out of spec wrench and reusing old
> > turbo washers I had chronic turbo leaks which resulted
> > in countless hours of replacing gaskets and turbines.
> > After seeing "fast guys" who really knew their stuff
> > lose hours and $$$ tearing apart engines bc of bad
> > wrenches I a year ago I did some research on properly
> > tightening a bolt[also called threaded fasteners].
> > Some areas might seem like a bit much....until you
> > have to spend hours fixing a problem bc, in my case, I
> > had a torque wrench that was under by 10 ftpound at 52
> > ftpounds. Important: this ignores the lazer/light $250
> > wrenches made by Snap-on as the wasnt enough info to
> > research these. (Part 2 in included below):
> >
> >
> > ****part 1****
> > Some important things to note - some of you, of
> > course, know these:
> >
> > 1.)A summing you are a professional mechanic, you
> > should have your clicker wrench checked every 8K-12K
> > "cycles"(clicks) or every year.
> > 2.)You should alway keep the treads clean. Incorrect
> > thread torsion can result.
> > will affect "torque" at the bolt head.
> > 3.) Always pull the torque wrench towards you, dont
> > push.
> > 4.) Never use a torque wrench to loosen bolts.
> > 5.) Always turn the wrench back to zero FT LBS for
> > storage, If you dont the spring clutch inside will
> > deform in its compressed state.
> > 6.) Never drop it or beat on it like a regular wrench.
> > Ever wonder why expensive torque wrench come with a
> > rigid carrying case? Store it away from severe
> > humidity and temperature extremes. For example dont
> > store in your 30 degree garage and expect to get the
> > right torque. Remember how small the springs are.
> > 7.) Clicker types are good for usage in which the
> > bolts will be in a high vibration environment. Bar
> > types should be used for lug nuts; has to do with
> > constant pushing which can trigger the release on a
> > clicker.
> > 8.) Never tighten a bolt with a non-torque wrench then
> > attempt to check it with a torque wrench. I'll have to
> > look this up again, but it has to do with static
> > movements , how the clutch mechanism "feels" it, and
> > its affect on a reading.
> > 9) Get a wrench that is far out of your usage range.
> > Using a 50 ftlb max
> > wrench at 50 ftlb will throw off accuracy fast.
> > 10) On Clean threads anit-seaze and other thread
> > additive wont affect
> > torquing.
> > 11.) Get a square position to read from and get the
> > wrench square on the head of the bolt. Dont use
> > ujoints when torquing. Even though kits come
> > with adapters, the "twist" of the adapter will affect
> > torque. Any length adapters will effect torque. There
> > is a calculation to overcome this.
> > 12.) [editied out]
> > 13.) This will calibrate fltlbs into inchpounds an
> > many others. You need
> > to haveJava on for it to work.
> > http://www.boltscience.com/pages/convert.htm . So for
> > instance if you wanted to tighten you flywheel to 100
> > ftlbs and you have an inch pound
> > wrench.....
> > 14.) Having you wrench checked cost about $20 plus
> > shipping.
> > http://www.torquerepair.com/
> >
> > ****part 2(from a later post)****
> > Well I just got my torque wrench(0-150 ft lbs).
> > Originally when I took
> > off the shrink wrap it had a very official sticker on
> > it that said "inspected by 113324". Being that I had
> > out of torque wrenches in the past, I figured I'd pay
> > the $20 to be confident about inspector "113324"' s
> > ability. Glad I did.
> > Turns out my unused "inspected" wrench was out of spec
> > by 10 foot pounds(under)* at a 90 foot pound setting
> > and off(under) 12 foot pounds *[see below for detail]
> > at 150 setting. It cost me $50 to have it fixed. They
> > send you a "certificate of calibration" which gives>
> > torque "as found" and torque set at " final"
> > adjustment. with various other info like the room temp
> > it was tested at. BTW this wrench was the $75 one sold
> > by Pep Boys. Also, they call to discuss torque
> > findings, nice guys, and he happened to mention that
> > they find Asian made wrenches to be out of spec a
> > significantly more then American made wrenches. Cheap
> > labor?
> >
> > * the amount was calculated based on center spec. For
> > example at 150 setting, in spec is between 156 - 144.
> > Mine was 138 "as found" and 155 "final"(repaired). so
> > it was off (144 + 156)/2 - 138 = 12 foot lbs(under).
> >
> > Steve Fantozzi
>
> British Standard (Britool or Norbar) is +/- 3%
>
> Point 3 shouldn't affect a proper torque wrench (Britools & Gedores are
> insensetive to where you push on them)
>
> & i think the discussion has already thrown out point 10 :-)
>




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