5KSQ Driveshaft Bearing Replacement

[james accordino]

Every part save the actual shafts themselves is
available.  You will actually have to work though.
What part is bad?  The CV joints on both ends are just
Lobro parts as used on other European rear drive cars.
 Rod Ramsey at The Parts Connection just had these on
sale.  Is it the actual bearing in the center of the
shaft?  This is just a single row ball bearing with
side sheilds.  30mmx55mmx13mm.  Nothing tricky there.
You must be able to remove a u-joint without
destroying it.  The retaining rings for the u-joint
are available seperately.  I got mine at Arrow
Industrial Supply.  M26 internal retaining rings.  The
u-joint itself is replaceable.  A company called AEC
Products in Defiance, Ohio makes a u-joint with
identical specs.  Part # is 1677.  Finally if the
rubber support ring is shot, here's where you need to
do alittle work.  Maybe.  AEC also sells these, and
may now have the Audi one.  I previously did mine and
used an OEM Mercedes part for a 240/300 D.  I cut the
strap bracket off both and had the Audi bracket welded
onto the new ring.  This is exactly what they did when
they made it.  O.K. how much does this cost?  My CV
joints were good, but TPC had them on sale for $80ea.
I think.  This is by far the largest expense, but
these rarely go bad.  My u-joint was also in excellent
condition, and I was VERY careful when I removed it,
so I don't even know how much AECs costs.  I don't
think it could be over $20-25 for a u-joint?  Spicer
ones for my Ford pickup cost $6 ea.  The Mercedes
rubber support ring cost $9 from Import Parts
Specialists in Boise, Idaho.  The bearing cost $6.
The one I got is a Koyo brand made in the U.K.
somewhere.  It cost me $7 to get the bracket adapted
(welded) but I wanted that to be done professionally.
I'm not so good and didn't want it ruined or weak.
The M26 internal rings cost $2.20 for all 4.  If you
get a u-joint, it will come with these.  I think if
you replaced all the parts you're looking at $220.  If
your front and rear CV's are good (and they should be)
then the bill is $40-50 if you need a u-joint, and
maybe quite a bit less.

Good Luck
Jim Accordino

--- Konstantin Bogach
<konstantin.bogach at morganstanley.com> wrote:
> I am trying to find a reference to BMW part # for
> driveshaft center
> bearing for type44.  Can find it only for 4K.  I
> remember seeing Igor
> Kessel post about using BMW bearing support and
> fitting it on Audi's
> braket (cutting and weldig was involved).  To my
> surprise I can not find
> the post.  Does anyone have that part #?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Konstantin Bogach.
>

O.K.  They tell me that AEC out of Ohio is out of
business. That's O.K. too.  Usually, unless there has
been a VERY long period without having the U-Joint
greased, it SHOULD be O.K.  Remove it from the shaft
VERY carefully using plenty of lube and lots of rust
reduction techniques around the areas you'll be
pressing the caps through.  I was able to remove my
rusty mess totally intact by using these techniques
and being very careful.  This is the 1 item you really
want to save if you can.  Everything else in the
previous mail is still valid AFAIK.  My rebuild has
close to 40k on it and it's fine.

Jim Accordino

--- Christopher Ritchie <critchie1 at hotmail.com> wrote:
> How difficult is it to replace the driveshaft
> bearing in a 1988 5KSQ?  I
> mean the ones sold by Blau and others whereby you
> only need to replace the
> bearing and not the whole driveshaft.  Can anyone
> give a quick rundown on
> the procedure?
>
>
>
>
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