Crimp vs. Solder & wire coloring?

[SJ]

> From: David <duandcc_forums at cox.net>
> Subject: Crimp vs. Solder & wire coloring?
>
>  . . . . Anyway, I'd like to get the lists thoughts on crimp versus
solder. Obviously I need to cut >the .current headlight plugs off and
install H4 plugs. So, what's the best way to attach them? Crimp on
>connectors (butt connectors?) or solder the wires? Coming from a marine
environment, I say crimp. >Crimping is the standard on all marine wiring
jobs as they have to withstand constant vibration and >exposure to the
elements and solder joints tend to break. Thoughts?
**** I've done it both ways. Soldering is a pain in the ass.
If you crimp, use a ratchetting type crimper. Another problem with crimping
is the wire you use. Home depot stranded wire has few strands and is stiff.
Fine stranded wire would be ideal . . but where to get it? Tin plated wire
would be even better. And, you want wire rated to 100 C or better . .and oil
and gas resistant.

>Then, Anybody know offfhand what the wiring colors are for the headlights?
I mean the color of >the .wire .for +low, +high & ground. I want to get
these lights in ASAP. I know Santa will be bringing me >a proper relayed
harness from SUVLights, but I'd really like t
**** Just measure the voltage at the light. Pull the plug off one side and
correlate the voltage to the wire. The color code on the other side will be
the same.

>  o run them for a week or two without relays. That way I can see what the
difference is betwen DOT & >E-code then how much a differnce relaying
makes...
***** Run them without relays? Did you check the new current flow with E
lights? Your stalk switch may crash and burn. Thats what relays prevent.
I just relayed my Dodge truck. The voltage at the lamp was 11 volts. Voltage
at the battery was 13.6 volts.
The light output is not directly related to the voltage. The relationship is
something like 10% voltage drop results in 30% light output drop. You can
see why eliminating any voltage drop at the lights is important.

SJ