re. Crank Bolt - A4

[Ben Swann]

I did in fact make one and that is what I use now - forgot to mention this
even though it was most obvious method.  Mine looks a bit different, but I
made it out of a 2" pipe flange(from Home Depot) which can be bolted to a
rod, 2X4 or 1/4" x 1" ssteel  stock which I am using now as I had clearance
problems on one particular coupe that had the front end bashed in a little.
I cut notches in the flange to fit identically as the tool I borrowed from
an audi tech.  Had to grind down the outer edge of the pipe part  to fit
inside the large hole.  Works like the pro tool - what's that Schley number?
Guess I should take a picture, as it works fairly well.

I would do it like yours if doing over again - crude but slick and
effective.  Assumes one has a welder.

If the real tool only cost around $50 then certainly worth getting if doing
more than one job.  However, I think they are much more than that.  Anyone
know?

Ben
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "P.Dooley" <pdooley at gte.net>
To: "'Ben Swann'" <benswann at comcast.net>; "'Bhatti, Mohammed'"
<Mohammed.Bhatti at si-intl.com>
Cc: <quattro at audifans.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2003 10:19 AM
Subject: RE: re. Crank Bolt - A4


> You risk bending a rod with this approach.
> Why not make one?
> http://home1.gte.net/pdooley/auditool.html
>
>
> I've made DIY crank lockers in the past, but got away from that as I
> became
> thankful I never sheared a flywheel tooth, but why tempt fate.
>
> Another trick that worked for me [ credit to Phil Payne?] when engine
> was on
> stand and I needed to break the bolt.  Get a  5' or so section of rope
> about
> 3/8" in diameter and snake it down a spark plug hole  when cyl is about
> at
> BDC until the cylinder is full.  Turning the breaker bar will result in
> compressing the rope. until  at some point the bolt should break loose.
>
> YMMV and Caveats for OOPs's I havent thought of.
>
>
>
>