3" exhaust built - pics here

[JShadzi at aol.com]

A tubular header is by far the best option, no corrosion if you use heavy gauge 304, its just fitting it, 2-piece is a major cash event, not worth it IMO. 

Anyway, you can see my thoughts here: http://www.80tq.com/tube_header.html

Javad

>Yeah,
>
>I am interested to see how the welding repairs I made hold up, I'll be
>surprised if I dont see recracking on the first fire-up.
>
>If I had the time I was going to have the inside and outside of the
>manifold coated, but the snow put a stop to that Idea.
>
>I had looked into the 2 piece manifold, but it seemed like a hell of a lot
>of cost for not a lot of gain. The other way is the tubular route, but I
>had heard a lot about corrosion on tubular sytems too.
>
>TO be honest I think I will be sticking with the cast unit as this is
>supposed to be a low cost, low effort project. If I was to spend a lot of
>time I think I would be using something other than the 5K as a base,
>probably a URS4 or UK URQ20V. Or hate to say it, maybe even an Integrale
>Elephante. (gotta love those early euro muscle rally cars)
>
>Cheers
>
>Timmmy
>
>> Yes, ceramic coatings are fine, generally, though only coating the outside
>> on the 10v creates worse cracking IME.  That manifold doesn't like to hold
>> a lot of heat, honestly, with that 10v exh manifold, I'd just get it
>> planed flat and run as-is, its a "piece of shit" all around, and if you
>> can keep it from cracking to bits, that's about as much performance you
>> can expecxt out of it.
>>
>> Javad
>>
>>>Hmmm
>>>
>>>That is odd, I think you and Jim are probably bang on with the assumption
>>>of the formation of hard molecules in the iron, leading to microcracking
>>>by the sounds of it.
>>>
>>>so opening up a whole new can of worms.....
>>>
>>>Ceramic coatings seem like a better alternative all round then? Any
>>>experience with them?
>>>
>>>I am out of time for now so will be removing the wrap and putting
>>>everything back togeather over the next 2 weeks (working audi for
>>>Christmas present with any luck) as driving the Miata in the snow is fun
>>>but a bit deadly really.
>>>
>>>Cheers
>>>
>>>Timmy
>>>
>>>
>>>> The DP flange is cast as well, and exhibits the same exact destruction,
>>>> I
>>>> had a downpipe completely disintegrate on me that I had wrapped, really
>>>> odd, even the cat was full of pieces of it, it had just began flaking
>>>> and
>>>> crystalizing, very odd.
>>>>
>>>> Javad
>>>>
>>>>>Morning Javad
>>>>>
>>>>>Well....Bummer....and it looks so pretty, and the theory is great, but
>>>>> it
>>>>>seems like the general concensus points to my removing the wrap   :.(
>>>>>
>>>>>So I will be getting out the snips this weekend.
>>>>>
>>>>>So here's another question for yall then;
>>>>>
>>>>>the downpipe - is the O2 sensor housing cast iron or cast stainless? I
>>>>>thought it was cast stainless as there doesnt seem to be any real
>>>>>corrosion at the joint to the stainless downpipe as I would have
>>>>> expected
>>>>>from welding stainless to cast iron.
>>>>>
>>>>>Timmy
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> I absolutely agree with Jim, that exh. manifold will disintegrate
>>>>>> into
>>>>>> powder
>>>>>> in about 8 months with that wrap on it, BTDT.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Javad
>>>>>>
>>>>>> In a message dated 12/9/2003 3:34:42 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>>>>>> jeg1976 at yahoo.com writes:
>>>>>> Looks good!  I hate getting and giving news like this,
>>>>>> but.....  You might want to take the wrap off that EM.
>>>>>> I can't even describe how fast cast iron will
>>>>>> disintegrate from that stuff.  This goes for the cast
>>>>>> iron part of the DP as well.  You can wrap everything
>>>>>> back from there because it's stainless though.  If you
>>>>>> plan on taking the EM off in a year for a header
>>>>>> upgrade or something, than I'd just leave it on:)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> HTH,
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
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