Under car fuel line mount retainers - How To?

[SJ]

> > I'm thinking of cleaning and painting, with Por 15, the fuel lines that
sit
> > in the rubber mounts under the car . . .before they rust thru and leak.

> First, I am tempted to warn you that all that physical manipulation of
> the fuel lines may very well *make* them spring a leak or three,
**** If they spring a leak, thats good. Now I know they were only 1000 miles
from leaking on their own.

>As I recall, it's mostly a matter of using a good strong pick type tool,
using it to reach through
> the slot and catching the tab, then levering the slot over the tab and
> popping the tool out in such a way that the tab catches in the slot.
**** Yes, I recall that. The problem is that you hit the bottom of the floor
pan with handle part of the tool before you can get the spring latches to
engage. You need a compound bend tool. I may have to work on that . .. A U
shaped tool . . Bent screwdriver or something.

> Also, if you suspect your fuel lines might be in rough shape (not just
> some surface rust - and they're always worse under those holders!)
**** I never had a leak from surface rust. The leak was always from rusted
holes in the tubing that was inside the rubber retainers.

> should be able to get new, pre-bent ones through a dealer.  I know 4k
> and coupe ones were still available a couple of years ago (about $300
> for both pressure and return).
**** Are you insane?!  Moi spending $300 on fuel tubing?
I used copper refigeration tubing on my Dodge truck. $12 for 50 feet. The
fuel pressure is a bit higher on the audi, so copper may not work.
I may get away without having to replace any tubing. But if I do, I would
rather buy the tubing and bender and flaring tool, and do it myself. It is
not rocket science.

SJ
85 Dodge PU, D-250, 318, auto
85 Audi 4k - - sold but still on the road
88 Audi 5kq
90 Audi 100q