Timing pin repair was: jb weld for timing pin repair?

[Frederick Smith]

Scott, I have repaired two flywheel timing pins by the following method.
Access through the starter hole.

If there is a "stub" of the original pin remaining grind it flush with
the surface of the flywheel. (Measure the diameter of the pin before you
grind it off if possible).

After grinding/filing, center punch the remaining pin stub. Drill out
the remaining portion of the pin, use a fractional or number size drill
that is as close to the old pin dia. as possible. A few .000ths oversize
is ok.

Example: A #31 drill bit is .1200, 1/8" is .1250, #30 is .1285. lets say
you remove the old pin using a 1/8" (.1250) drillbit. You would make the
new pin from the shank of a #30 drill (.1285) by simply cutting it to
the length required (use a grinder, cut-off wheel, Dremel tool etc. will
do). The larger pin (+.0035) can be driven into the new hole with a
small hammer, the slightly larger diameter provides a press fit.

The air-gap between the sensor and the pin isn't very wide but it will
easily accomodate a "slightly" larger (a few .000ths) pin.

If you want to check the clearance after you replace the pin, rotate the
pin to the sensor hole in the block. Place some modeling clay on the end
of the sensor and seat the sensor in the opening. Observe the amount of
clay that remains. (The distance between the impression that the pin
makes and the face of the sensor.) If necessary you can shim the sensor
to increase the "gap".

The original pin material is not hardened to any great degree, I don't
remember having any difficulty drilling out the broken stub.
It sounds more complicated than it really is and is a reliable fix. My
urQ has been runnuing this way for the last 6 years. No epoxy, welding
or voodoo. Give it a try.

Smitty