HOWTO: Outer CV Boot Joint 80 90 Quattro
John Larson
j.d.larson at verizon.net
Tue Jan 14 13:21:26 EST 2003
Nice write-up, but you've done it in a bit harder way than you need to.
Removing the steering knuckle (lower strut assembly) from the upper means
you will need an alignment.
Try this.
Loosen the axle nut, using the appropriate socket (17mm allen socket, 1/2"
drive only!, or a 24 mm socket.
Loosen the lug bolts.
Jack up and properly support the appropriate corner of the car (NEVER on a
cinder block! EVER!).
Remove the wheel.
Remove the ball joint pinch bolt at the bottom of the strut, and pry the A
arm down, freeing the ball joint from the strut. (17mm wrench size, or
11/16")
Remove the axle bolt, then use a large hammer and a thick drift to
push the joint out of the wheel hub.
Cut away the old boot.
Using the all thread bolt, thread it all the way into the joint, a process
which will extract the joint from the axle.
Remove the washers from the axle, and the remnants of the boot and grease.
Clean everything well with thinner, carb spray, whatever. Inspect the CV
joint for signs of wear or too much play.
If you're going to use the small clamp, slip it onto the shaft, followed by
the boot. Slipping a medium screwdriver between the boot and the axle and
rotating it around the shaft while pushing on the boot will easily pry the
boot onto the shaft.
Install the plastic collar and the cupped washer onto the shaft. The narrow
end of the collar goes on first, and the cup side of the washer goes against
it. I only change the spring clip if the old one is obviously bad.
Using the measured amount of grease that comes in the Lobro boot kit (the
one you want to use!), pack the joint full. (Tip: insert the open end of
the container into the center of the joint and squeeze it dry, holding your
finger over the open threaded hole of the joint.)
Straighten the inner race to be parallel with the axis of the joint, put it
up against the axle, and whack it on with a lead, brass, or plastic hammer
until it seats (you might have to make a couple of tries if it's not
straight!).
Install the boot over the CLEAN outer lip of the joint, put the large clamp
over the boot, and crimp the it tight with a pair of end cutters or the
proper tool. Do the same for the small end clamp, making sure the boot is
in the proper location on the shaft.
Insert the CV joint into the hub (might have to wiggle it a bit) and then
thread the bolt into it to hold it in place.
Pry the A arm down and insert the ball joint into the hole in the bottom of
the strut. Install and tighten the pinch bolt.
Install the wheel and the lug bolts.
Lower the car and tighten the lug bolts to the proper torque.
Torque the axle bolt to the proper torque.
Drive it away.
For a Type 44, it's easier to remove the entire axle from the car, because
the snap ring is in the joint itself rather than on the axle, and it needs
to be pried apart with snap ring pliers (while beating on the joint with a
BFH!). This, BTW, can be a true test of your ability to withstand
frustration! In any case, doing it this way means you don't have to remove
the caliper or the lower strut housing, and you won't need an alignment.
HTH, John
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