Is this over my head? Opinions Please
Brett Goetz
brett.goetz at rtp.ppdi.com
Thu Jul 17 15:47:25 EDT 2003
Thanks for the input. I was quoted 1020.00 for just the power steering
rack R and R without new hoses. When taking off the old parts, have you
guys had trouble with frozen bolts? Do I need a torch to tackle this job?
David Confer wrote:
> The Parts Connection (TPC) has much of what you need on sale right now...
> http://www.thepartsconnection.com/specials.htm
> I think at $59 each new control arms are the way to go. As Stephane said,
> the control arm bushings are more difficult, and if you add in the cost of
> the bushing itself, maybe a trip to a shop to press them in, and the fact
> that your ball joints/boots are likely suspect, the new control arm makes a
> lot of sense.
>
> I've used a 4 inch bench vise to press the sub-frame bushing in, but this
> requires a second person to balance the subframe for you.
>
> Installation of the sway bar is difficult. I haven't tried what Stephane
> suggests so don't know how well it would work, but I did have success using
> a come-along to flex the bar into place. That's the method I'd use if I
> were doing it again.
>
> When bolting the subframe back onto the car, be aware there is a risk of
> cross-threading and stripping threads of the captive nuts, which could ruin
> your day. I recommend to clean any residual waxy stuff off of the threads
> of the bolts and captive nuts as this stuff seems to increase the risk of
> cross threading.... brake cleaner works well. You want the threads clean
> anyway. The book says to use all new bolts.
>
> As always, be sure to consult Scott Mockry's great website....
> http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/susp.html
> He's recently added additional info related to suspension work. If you
> find his website valuable to you, you might try to send some of your
> business his way.
> ---------
> Dave C
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