Is this over my head? Opinions Please

[David Head]

And remember - the control arm inner bolts do NOT get fully tightened
until the car is on the ground with full weight of the car on them.
Otherwise they'll rip out on under a month...

Dave C. wrote:

>Brett writes...
>"Thanks for the input.  I was quoted 1020.00 for just the power steering
>rack R and R without new hoses. "
>
>Sounds about right.  You ought to be able to buy a rebuilt rack and a
>couple liters of fluid for $300, so you'll be earning $100 an hour if you
>do it yourself.
>
>" When taking off the old parts, have you guys had trouble with frozen
>bolts?  Do I need a torch to tackle this job?"
>
>I've done subframe bushings on several cars and never yet saw a siezed
>bolt.  They are hefty bolts however, and an air impact wrench would greatly
>ease the removal process.  The toughest thing I've struggled with was
>removing the ball joint stub from the strut housing.  This does tend to get
>rusted in place, but I don't think you'd want to use a torch on it.
>
>Re: the  ball joint boots I mentioned earlier... they may get damaged in
>the removal process, so that's another reason to go with the new control
>arms.  They are also vulnerable to damage during the re-install, so be very
>careful about that.
>
>I like Nick's idea for the sway bar re-install.
>
>Dave C.
>
>David Confer wrote:
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