Clutch Slave Cyl R+R, 200Q

[scott thomas]

Having done the job several times on both, the early type and the
later, I have a few suggestions.

1. If it's a 200q, should have the later style slave cylinder that
uses a bolt and not a roll pin. If this is the case, I'd do the job
myself.
2. If it's the early type, it's a pita to get the pin and the
cylinder out.

Here's the procedure for the later type:

Locate the fixing bolt. I can't remember what size head. Maybe a
10mm? 13mm? Loosen it. Don't remove it all the way. Next, with the
slave still in the bore, loosen the hose. It's alot easier to do it
now, rather than pull it out first, then loosen. Don't bother trying
to unscrew the hose. You're just going to loosen it for now. If the
slave has some life still left on it, maybe just push the pedal down
and it'll pop out. Mine was fine when I pulled it (just wanted to
change it to be sure), so I popped it out of the bore by pushing on
the pedal. If it doesn't come out on it's own, use this procedure.
I've seen the 200s are a little better with the cylinders not siezing
to the bore than the 5k's. If the slave is totally shot, and it
doesn't come out on its own, long bar and hammer. Just whack it to
turn and it should come out. Make sure the fixing bolt is off!

Reinstallation is straight forward. Just push in the bore, with the
bleeder valve ope (make it easier). Put fixing bolt in. This is a
little tough just because you have to align the bolt. Took me 1/2
hour my first time. Before you do this, make sure you put the hose
on! You put the hose on first, then insert in the bore. Once it's
buttoned back up, you tighten the hose.

As far as bleeding, you reverse bleed it. The most successful way for
me was the drivers front caliper to the slave. Make sure you brake
fluid is flushed and clean! Open the bleeder valve of the drivers
front brake caliper. Run a long hose, even a vacuum hose over the the
bleeder valve on the slave. You might want to prime the hose, but
it's not necessary. Open both valve and start pumping the brakes. You
will see bubbles coming up the side of the reservoir. When the
bubbles stop, close the slave's bleeder, then pump the clutch pedal a
few times, then reopen and pump the brakes again. SHould get all the
air out. Make sure you don't hit the clutch pedal when the slave's
valve is open. You'll have to bleed it all over again.

Tital should be about 1.5 hours, including a 4 wheel brake bleeding
prior to the clutch bleed. Nearly nothing has to be done under the
car; maybe just the step of loosening the body end of the clutch
hose, if needed.
---- Begin Original Message ----

From: l.leung at juno.com
Sent: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 16:36:13 GMT
To: quattro at audifans.com
Subject: Re: Clutch Slave Cyl R+R, 200Q


Well, I've only had one reply to my earlier post, and unfortunately I
couldn't read it because my reader coughed it up. So, I'll ask again:

1) How much pro-shop time should a Slave Cyl R+R job take?

2) Is it a good idea to replace the Clutch M/C at the same time?

3) How much time should the DIY job take, considering I have no
    access to a lift?

4) According to Bentley's, the pin ia actually a screw. Is this easier
    to do than the type 85 clutch slave cylinder, i.e. no punching out
    of drift pins, etc.

Thanks in Advance,

LL - NY





---- End Original Message ----




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