80q MC turbo engine swap information

[JShadzi at aol.com]

Brian, great job, we'd love to see some pics, let me know if you'd like me to host your car under "other conversions" at www.80tq.com.

I don't know how to break this to you however...in 90% of all turbo conversion cases the disease can be fatal to your  career, social life, travelling ambitions, and can cause major paralysis in marriages and girl friend relationships.

Our prayers are with you, if you ever need to talk I'm available, though I'm still in therapy and have a long way to go, I'm told there is a light at the end of the tunnel and I'm willing to share with you as much as I know (plus we can chat about upcoming mods on our cars?).

Well, lemme know.

God Bless,
Javad
80tq.com

>Turbo conversion 1988 Audi 80 quattro/MC engine
>Brian Larson-Saint Paul MN
>
>Disclaimer, I take no responsibility for the correctness of
>the information listed below, please check your own
>information and schematics before ruining something!  Before
>following any advice from the web, please double check all
>information you find.
>
>First of all thanks to the guys who have done these swaps
>before me, and taken the time to share your information.
>The info you guys posted on the web was inspiritational, and
>helped with a lot of the technical details.  Thanks to Dave
>Close, Pat Martin, Javad Shadzi, Marc Swanson, Nate Stewart,
>Scott Hare, Martin Pajak, Mark Chang, Brian Bressler, Scott
>Mockry, and others I am sure I forgot.
>
>I did this swap to make the car a lot faster and more fun to
>drive, a fun inexpensive commuter car.  This swap was done
>to be more budget conscious than a lot of the other ones you
>see on the Internet, but I tried to replace all of the
>necessary parts that are hard to get too later.
>
>The car is a 1988 Audi 80q, with 190,000 miles that I
>purchased with 182,000 miles for $600 two years ago, it had
>a bad starter and a clunky suspension, and the check engine
>light was constantly lit.  During the time I was driving it
>I replaced the wheel bearings, rear struts, all tie rod
>ends, all strut mounts, lower bushings, and lower ball
>joints to the tune of about $700 more dollars.
>
>The donor motor I bought was out of a 1990 Audi 200 turbo
>(mc-2 with k24 turbo) with 152,000 miles that I paid $200
>for and pulled myself, and I sold the wiring harness,
>computer, and other items from this unit for $300, so I
>guess the motor was free.  Out of one of my old parts cars I
>took out a mc-1 wiring harness and mac11 ecu, and installed
>a QLCC chip in it.  When the motor was out of the car I put
>new timing belt, idler bearing, water pump, crank and cam
>seals, and 80 oil pan and baffle on it.  Also, I swapped the
>mounting brackets over from the Audi 80 quattro motor,
>including modifying the front one to clear the turbo by
>cutting off the AC mount. Also, since I am using the stock
>80q transmission, I had to swap one larger transmission
>alignment dowel over from the 80q motor to allow the 80q
>transmission to mount to the 200 motor.  I used a 5kt
>throttle body and cable bracket.
>
>Clutch and flywheel; I modified the 80q flywheel by
>machining 2.4 pounds off the back, adding the 5kt timing
>pin, and had it balanced and resurfaced.  The modifications
>to my flywheel are detailed on Newtsplace.com, this worked
>fine.  The clutch parts I used are 1988 80q pressure plate
>$112, 1990 coupe quattro 20v clutch disk $141, 1988 80 q
>release bearing $40, 80q pilot bearing $8, or $301 for the
>complete clutch assembly.  You could probably duplicate my
>flywheel modifications for $150 if you cannot machine it
>yourself.
>
>Oil cooler, I used a 1989 Audi 100 quattro oil cooler (88
>5ks cars have these too) and lines without modification, and
>welded a mount under the passenger frame rail.  A friend of
>mine did this to his 1984 4ktq first, and it worked so well
>I used it also.  $12 from the u-pull yard!
>
>Intake, I used a urq airbox top and intake hat, and 5ktq
>intercooler hoses, I was lucky enough to find the urq pieces
>for $120, but this is the exception to the rule, the going
>rate seems to be more than that.  I drilled and tapped the
>intake for the air temp sensor, to open up my intercooler
>upgrade options in the future. I did the cut and splice
>routine for the throttle cable, in retrospect I would
>probably cut the pedal end off of a 5ktq cable, and thread
>it though the 80q sheath ala Javad.
>
>Intercooler, I used the stock 5ktq intercooler and cut away
>enough core support (upper and lower and headlight riser
>also) to get it to fit, and removed the center hood latch, 2
>are enough in my opinion.  I also had to grind away the
>backside of the grill in several places to get it to come
>close to looking stock.  I removed the secondary radiator
>and looped the lines with a ¾” to 1” straight fitting
>from the hardware store, a poor mans 4kq radiator.
>
>Exhaust, 200 turbo automatic downpipe, cut 1.5” after the
>wastegate, and welded custom back from there into the 80q
>exhaust.  For a rough idea of what I did, just angle the
>pipe in where you cut it to gain enough subframe clearance.
>I wrapped the downpipe with header wrap because it is within
>¼” of the painted frame rail and I would recommend
>everyone else does this too.
>
>Body, Battery box removed and battery relocated to trunk
>using 5ktq battery cable run through car on passenger side.
>Passenger side tie rod bent with a torch to clear wastegate
>and body.  It was necessary to bend my tie rod in two places
>to get it to clear everything.
>For the lower grill, I ground away the back side of the
>grill with a 4" angle grinder to make it totally open to air
>entry so the oil cooler could get some air.  I added an
>analog boost gauge and a digital fuel mixture gauge in a
>custom panel where the ashtray used to be.  I just cannot do
>the “Boy Racer” gauges on the A pillar, man it sucks to
>grow up!  I put in new 80q transmission mounts, and new 5ktq
>motor mounts as long as it was apart.  I removed the AC, as
>it did not work, the condenser was junk, the turbo is in the
>way, and lighter is faster.
>
>Wiring information, for my swap, the red 5ktq harness was
>the only critical one.  Plug everything under the hood in,
>and hook up the necessary wires under the dash.  I installed
>the red harness in the 80q after the turbo motor was in, and
>it worked well, there is enough room (with the heater box
>out) to maneuver it into place.
>Mac 11 pin      5kt color(at t14b)  80/90 color     80/90 fusebox
>31          Y           Br/G            Ila
>21          Br/G            G/V         Bs
>1           Bl/w- Bk        -           B87f
>8,3,19          Bl/Bk           -           87a
>Power to computer “I15” is on when key is on “on” or
>“start” condition, 2.5 Bk to Bl/r pin 35.  (I actually
>got this power from the old coil power, which is hooked up
>to the coil distribution block).
>The codes flash fine, and the wiring seems to work great so
>far.  I used the stock 80 oil pressure warning system, and
>charging/starting system, and cooling fan switches.  I hid
>the ECU behind the heater box, it fits in the stock location
>with the bracket removed.
>
>As of right now, I have no secondary water pump on the
>turbocharger, and no injector cooling shroud or fan.  I
>might add these later if necessary.  This is my 5th
>turbocharged car, and I do not feel the afterrun pump is
>necessary as long as the turbo is allowed to cool down for
>30 seconds after a hard run, and our climate is pretty
>moderate 350 days per year.
>
>Possible future projects on this car include plans to
>upgrade to Megasquirt EFI, to be able to uncork the intake
>side, and support approximately 300 crank horsepower of fuel
>(15-18 psi ?), while running all factory boost and timing
>controls, and retaining the ability to flash trouble codes
>and troubleshoot.
>
>I had a few teething issues after getting the car running, a
>bad WOT switch harness which I replaced with another plug,
>and a bad warm up regulator.  After fixing those things, the
>car starts and runs well.
>
>It is a fun car, I look forward to driving it for a long
>time!
>
>