abs engaging during normal driving

[Joshua Van Tol]

Brett, the later cars don't use the ablative caps. They have a
different design of sensor that is pushed all the way home, and then
backs itself out due to contact with the tone wheel on the cv joint
until it is properly spaced.
On Tuesday, March 25, 2003, at 11:16  AM, Brett Dikeman wrote:

> At 8:51 PM -0700 3/24/03, Jeremiah Curry wrote:
>> Howdy all,
>>
>> I just got my 91 200 20v back from the shop where I got a tune-up,
>> new power
>> steering pump, alignment, and thermostat. (ouch to the tune of $660)
>> Now
>> the abs engages during normal driving, especially really slow stops.
>> It
>> makes that clanging sound and I can feel the brake pulsate.  If I
>> defeat abs
>> with the dash buttom the problem goes away.  Any ideas.
>
> I'd say take the car back to the shop that did the alignment and ask
> them to re-seat all the ABS sensors and/or plug in the ABS computer
> diagnostic unit if they have one(they probably don't.)  It sounds
> like one was jostled, perhaps?  The "activates at slow speeds" is a
> common problem when one or more sensors aren't properly spaced from
> the teeth on the hub, usually too far I believe.
>
> Proper procedure involves a set of small plastic caps that go on the
> end of the sensor; you replace the cap, push the whole thing back in,
> and the teeth on the hub chew away the plastic as soon as you drive
> it, leaving a perfectly spaced sensor.  They're commonly called
> 'ablative caps', and you should be able to find a number of posts
> about them in the archives(including some possible part numbers) if
> you plug that into the archive search.  They cost about $1/apiece.
>
>
>> In a seemingly unrelated issue I have noticed a clicking sound, like
>> tirm
>> signals but faster that comes on sometimes from what sounds like the
>> area
>> behind the vents by the drivers door.
>
> It is possible they're related.
>
> In any case, if you're positive it is not coming from the fusebox in
> the engine compartment, that'd be one of the auxiliary relay
> panels(either the one in the side kickpanel, or the one behind the
> knee panel.)  A common source of clicking is accidentally bumped seat
> heater controls, but if it's faster than a turn signal...
>
>   Your best bet(provided no accessories are going bonkers) is
> probably to remove the panels and feel around until you can find the
> relay that's operating and check to see what it is in the Bentley.
> It will be obvious when you've found the right one.  Might want to
> start with the lower kickpanel, or try and pinpoint it more; the knee
> panel is more of a pain to remove- you have to take off the end 'cap'
> on the dash, and then remove about a bunch of torx and phillips
> screws.
>
> Brett
> --
> ----
> "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary
> safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin
> http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/