Fuse Amperage??? for a fuse beween the battery and the car.

[Marc Swanson]

> I relocated the battery to right behind the front seats, and have a cable,
> with the positive,  going to a kill switch, throught the fire wall, and
> finally connected to the orignal cables where the battery used to be.
>
> I just realize that in an accident the cable that goes from the battery to the
> kill switch could break causing a constant short (fire hazard). The kill
> switch, once not engaged, would prevent a short at the engine, but not at the
> back.
>
> So,  what do you recommend for a fuse in the battery box? (amperage, type,
> where to get it).


On my 4ktq I was worried about this too (battery is mounted in the
trunk) so I went to radioshack and bought a small rectangular shaped
plastic project box.  Then I went to a FLAPS and bought a 2 gauge 2'
battery lead with the clamp style connection on one end and the lug
style on the other and a 175 amp fuse.

I then drilled a hole in the side of the project box for a bolt to go
from inside the box through one end of the fuse then through the project
box.  This is my new positive "battery post" that I connect the big fat
cable running to the engine bay to.  The other end of the fuse (inside
the project box) I bolted to the spade end of the 2' battery lead which
I ran through another hole drilled in the end of the project box.  This
then bolted to the battery.  The whole project box was then bolted
inside my battery box just above the battery so everything is self
contained.  The nice thing about this setup is that everything connected
to the battery is now protected by the 175 amp fuse.


This sounds about as clear as mud so I'll try to take some pictures
later today when I get home from work.


Best Regards

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Marc Swanson, Software Engineer
Sonitrol Communications Corp.
Hartford, CT

Email: mswanson at sonitrol.net
Phone: (860) 616-7036
Pager: (860) 948-6713
 Cell: (603) 512-1267
  Fax: (860) 616-7589
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