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poteniometer gizmo nearby.
****The part has two screws holding it on.  A pressure regualtor.
****By the front pass hood pin near the fuel distributor.
****An ohm meter should have a constant 150/200 ohm or so reading across the
two
****pins with the plug removed.
****The point here is that if the Ohm reading increases in value during
testing
or
****is an open circuit (infinity - or blinking) that part is clogged OR BAD
and
****needs replacement.
A used VW quantum or other Audi 5cylinder part will work, but test it first
at the junk yard.

Mine acted up in Jax FLA.  I live in BOSTON.
Fuel filter was CLOGGED at 180K - Fuller than a coffee can of Grinds.
Previously, I hit the brakes hard and then the car acted up,
because I dislodged dirt into the part described above.
A Jax auto shop had me drive around with a fuel pressure digital gauge
attached.
It read ~110psi at all RPM's and load conditions. (this is when the car ran
well, no symptoms.)

So take that as a similar reading as yours but with a dirty fuel system
problem.

But when the part described above decided to go flakey again it was after
the shop, after a new fuel filter,
miles from nowhere and 25MPH at best if the throttle was pressed into a
"Sweet spot" and held there.
Starting?  No chance.
I used either (starting fluid) squirted into the rubber boot that clamps
onto
the airplate after the fuel distrib (before the IM and cold start valve)to
start it.

Seal that rubber boot back every time you start or it will suck air and not
fuel through the distributor and DIE.

In my dilemma the car if I could stablize the idle and run at 25 MPH in a
"sweet spot" backfired so much and ran so hot underneath, it melted the end
of the rusted exhaust off and melted the rear bumper cover.
ALSO, I nearly got killed by truckers bearing down on a 25MPH car with
flames underneath.

This little SIMPLE item was an amazing cure for a major 1100 mile headache.
Do either the thermo switch or this route.
Don't disassemble the fuel meter plate box,
it's (I've been told) rarely the issue and is all kinds of complex to adjust
and correct after you goof it up.

1. Swap out the fuel filter up stream in the fuel line (under the car)
2. Check the thermo switch - replace as in previous posts.
3. Measure the resistance at the part described above.
4. Replace if necessary at a salvage yard or Force5.com
HTH -Scott in BOSTON

Ok, Huw, others who know this system. Tell me what to do. I will do it. I
*THINK* the problem is with that gray 2-bolt part not controling the
pressure right. There is a 2 wire connection going to it. How do I test it?
What is my problem?

Thanks,

Tyson