quattro Digest, Vol 1, Issue 39

[SJ]

SJ
85 Dodge PU, D-250, 318, auto
85 Audi 4k - - sold but still on the road
88 Audi 5kq
90 Audi 100q


----- Original Message -----
From: <quattro-request at audifans.com>
To: <quattro at audifans.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2003 1:42 PM
Subject: quattro Digest, Vol 1, Issue 39


> Send quattro mailing list submissions to
> quattro at audifans.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> quattro-request at audifans.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> quattro-owner at audifans.com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of quattro digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re: Keep from loosing small parts WAS:: dead dash lights on
>       90Q  (TWFAUST at aol.com)
>    2. Re: What relays to use for Head light relays  (R. Mair)
>    3. Re: Keep from loosing small parts WAS:: dead dash lights on
>       90Q  (Dave K.)
>    4. Re: What relays to use for Head light relays (Phil Payne)
>    5. Re: Cam & crank gears for I-5 motors (Brett Dikeman)
>    6. Re: What relays to use for Head light relays (SJ)
>    7. RE: new audi A8  W12 (TM)
>    8. '89 Audi 100 Heater questions (SJ)
>    9. Headlight wiring harness (Al Powell)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 10:39:42 EST
> From: TWFAUST at aol.com
> Subject: Re: Keep from loosing small parts WAS:: dead dash lights on
> 90Q
> To: quattro at audifans.com
> Message-ID: <153.276e5ad4.2cf774be at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
> Sears sells a very nice stainless bowl with a magnet. It attaches to any
> ferrous surface and holds ferrous objects, screws, nuts, washers, etc.
> Tom Faust
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 10:53:45 -0500
> From: "R. Mair" <waves at epix.net>
> Subject: Re: What relays to use for Head light relays
> To: "Quattro List" <quattro at audifans.com>
> Message-ID: <02b001c3b4fe$a5c7e660$06945344 at Dell>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> To further detail these Bosch relay kits I'm talking about, they come with
> most of the connectors already crimped on, so there is little need for
fancy
> tools and extra pieces. These kits are designed for this very application.
> They even have a little tang on them in order to run a screw through them
in
> order to mount the relay, AND they come with wiring instructions. $15
folks.
> Better than traipsing though a bone yard looking for a relay that probably
> has 100k miles and 9000 on/off cycles run through it. And yes, relays do
go
> bad, especially ones that have been sitting in a junk yard for months. If
> anyone has trouble finding them, I have dozens of these kits here and will
> gladly send them to you.
>
>
>
> Rolf Mair
> Mair's Continental Motors
> 610.779.3555
>
> 2002 Allroad
> 1995.5 S6 Avant (for sale)
> 1995 90q Sport
> 1990 90 20v turbo
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 10:53:57 -0500
> From: "Dave K." <desmo888 at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: Keep from loosing small parts WAS:: dead dash lights on
> 90Q
> To: <TWFAUST at aol.com>, <quattro at audifans.com>
> Message-ID: <006701c3b4fe$ab2223a0$51575244 at DDGCH321>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> I've got numerous ways.
> Zip lock bags
> magnetic bowls
> cup cake holders (buy your wife new ones and use the old)
> Play-Do containers
> Baby Wipe Containers
>
> Dave K.
> '90 CQ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <TWFAUST at aol.com>
> To: <quattro at audifans.com>
> Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2003 10:39 AM
> Subject: Re: Keep from loosing small parts WAS:: dead dash lights on 90Q
>
>
> > Sears sells a very nice stainless bowl with a magnet. It attaches to any
> > ferrous surface and holds ferrous objects, screws, nuts, washers, etc.
> > Tom Faust
> > _______________________________________________
> > quattro mailing list
> > quattro at audifans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 16:58:45 +0100
> From: "Phil Payne" <quattro at isham-research.com>
> Subject: Re: What relays to use for Head light relays
> To: <quattro at audifans.com>
> Message-ID: <005201c3b500$152cf080$c4e0fea9 at bt.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> > I have 2 ratcheting crimpers from Home Depot (one for solderless
> > terminals and one for RJ) and - I consider them marginal, at best. They
> > also cost, as I recall, around 40+ bucks apiece. They also only do a
> > competent crimp about 1/2 the time.
>
> I use FACOM 450.6 crimpers - every single crimp is PERFECT.
>
> For those in the area - Bardwell's in Abbeydale Road, Sheffield is the
place to buy butt
> joints, male/female bullets and spades.
>
> Their counter is just bins - I open my SortaCase on top of them and just
pile in 50 of this,
> 50 of that, and so on.  The proprietor just watches me count.  "Those are
8 pence each."  So I
> take 50.  "OK - we're down to 6 pence each." So I take 50 of something
else.  "OK - we're down
> to 5 pence each."
>
> And so it goes on.  I usually leave with 300 or 400 items at 3 pence each.
>
> I've pretty much stopped soldering and heat shrinking - I get as good or
better results with
> crimped butt joints in a tiny fraction of the time.
>
> > For those not in the group above, by the time you buy the tools and
> > parts needed to properly construct a harness you'll pay 3 to 4 times
> > what a professionally assembled one will cost.
>
> I think I paid around $50 for the FACOM crimper.  I also got an expensive
FACOM stripper, but
> Radio Shack does a very good one for pennies.
>
> >> I do like those connectors that they use on the ready made harness. The
lamp
> >> connector you can get at most auto parts stores. But where do you find
the
> >> connector that duplicates what is at the lamp itself? Having this
connector
> >> would eliminate cutting into the existing harness.
>
> Cut a connector off a wreck and insert copper "blades" - turning a female
into a male.  You
> just need a sheet of thin copper and some tin snips.  Then plug that into
the existing
> harness - no need to damage it.
>
> >> I noticed the purchased harness had no protection for the relays. My
relays
> >> are protected with a 1 1/2" diameter ABS plastic pipe with end caps . .
> >>.sealed from the weather.
>
> I came across a building site where a number of new houses were being
built.  The plumbers had
> obviously changed their minds about something, and had dumped three
smallish PVC water tanks
> in a skip.  I cut the lower corners out and had 12 PVC "shields" to mount
behind, above and in
> front of the relays.
>
> I'd caution also that standard in-line fuse holders aren't up to the job -
get some heavy duty
> ones.
>
> If you can find a car with a dealer-fit aircon system in a junkyard, there
is an almost ideal
> three-relay bracket mounted inboard of the left headlight.
>
> --
>   Phil Payne
>   http://www.isham-research.com/quattro
>   +44 7785 302 803
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 11:31:52 -0500
> From: Brett Dikeman <brett at cloud9.net>
> Subject: Re: Cam & crank gears for I-5 motors
> To: "Phil Payne" <quattro at isham-research.com>, <quattro at audifans.com>
> Message-ID: <a05200f00bbebd57825e8@[192.168.1.2]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"
>
> At 6:46 PM +0100 11/25/03, Phil Payne wrote:
>
> >I replace the crank gear about one time in four.  The key thing is
> >the state of the Woodruff
> >key that engages in the crank - if it shows any sign of cracking at
> >the sides, I replace the
> >pulley.  I find I usually have to drill out the Allen screws that
> >hold the pulley into the
> >rear of the harmonic damper.
>
> My crank gear had to be replaced at considerable cost($50-ish?)
> because it broke while the shop was trying to get it off with a
> puller:
>
> http://frank.mercea.net/~brett/pics/car/audi/tbelt/crank_gear.jpg
>
> The -previous- shop had applied a locktite-like substance all over
> the crank side of the gear to the extent that the gear required
> sandblasting to read the part number.
>
> Apparently, the previous shop was highly concerned that the crank
> gear would pull a Houdini if not cemented in place.
>
> Brett
> --
> ----
> "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary
> safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin
> http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 12:15:40 -0500
> From: SJ <syljay at optonline.net>
> Subject: Re: What relays to use for Head light relays
> To: quattro at audifans.com
> Message-ID: <00eb01c3b50a$15219a50$0b1fc444 at dell450>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
>
> > Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 10:28:37 -0500
> > From: David Head <v8q at bellsouth.net>
> > Subject: Re: What relays to use for Head light relays
> >
> > One would think the post below to be series of intuitively obvious
> > statements, but they are not...
>
> **** Did I make the job sound too easy? Sometimes I forget that there are
> people out there that have serious life skills impairments. I naturally
> assume that those on this list are the "hands on" types.
> I was lucky enough to have had an uncle who taught me carpentry, plumbing,
> painting, staining, gardening, landscaping, electrical work and many other
> things when I was still in grammar school. Much of the work described on
> these pages seems simple enough to me . . . .with some tricky parts now
and
> then. I have to keep in mind that everything is not so simple for others.
>
>
> > Not all of us are retired nuclear electrical engineers. ;-) Or even for
> > that matter marginally competent electricians.
> > I have 2 ratcheting crimpers from Home Depot (one for solderless
> > terminals and one for RJ) and - I consider them marginal, at best. They
> > also cost, as I recall, around 40+ bucks apiece. They also only do a
> > competent crimp about 1/2 the time.
>
> **** I believe that you get what you pay for. Of course, I look around for
> the lowest price . . .on a quality tool.
> I bought my Greenlee ratchet crimper from Graingers. Like you said, the
> price was around $40. I have not experienced any problems with crimping.
> In the beginning, I messed up a few crimps .. but that was before I
learned
> how to position the connector so the crimp would be centered. I assume
that
> people will use the right size connector for the wire size. Again, I am
> assuming too much.
> As for connectors, I generally dont buy from Home Depot . . .. I buy them
> from an Electrical Parts store . .. Thomas and Betts connectors. Who knows
> what Home Depot sells.
> When doing the connections, I also use Noalux on the wires. I've had this
> stuff for 25 years now and cant seem to get rid of it. Noalux is a
compound
> that looks like Anti-seize compound. It was developed to prevent oxidation
> on aluminum wires in house wiring/commercial wiring applications. I put
some
> Noalux in the connector and dip the wire ends into it before doing the
> crimp. What the hell . .maybe the connection will last 100 years instead
of
> 50.
>
> > I've got enough relays, wiring, solderless terminals, heat shrink,
> > soldering irons, flux, solder and tools to do just about damn near
> anything.
> > So for those in my camp, slap one together. Chances are it still won't
> > be as nice or reliable as one from suvlights - but it will work. Cross
> > your fingers and hope it doesn't decide to 'not' work at 80 plus in the
> > mountains on a moonless night.
>
> **** Anything is possible, thats why the low and high beams are on
separate
> circuits. Redundancy as the Navy likes it.
> I mentioned that I liked those Suvlight connectors . .no wires to cut. IF
> something should fail, you can always unplug the connectors and plug in
the
> original wiring. More redundancy.
> I'll be putting in headlamp relays on my 85 Dodge truck today. The wife
> cooks, I play.
> I bought new lamp sockets to use on the lamps, and will use male spade
lugs
> to connect to the old lamp sockets for the relay circuit. Not quite how
> Suvlight does it, but close enough.
>
>
> > For those not in the group above, by the time you buy the tools and
> > parts needed to properly construct a harness you'll pay 3 to 4 times
> > what a professionally assembled one will cost.
>
> **** Yeppers. But, if in the future, you have to do similar work with
> crimpers and connectors . . .. its worth the cost of buying your own.
>
>
> > Not to mention what your time is worth. For me, its priceless. At a
> > minimum, 40 bucks an hour.
> **** Your time is worth 40 bucks an hour only if you have work piled up in
> front of you at $40 bucks an hour. Do you have unlimited overtime at work?
> And dont forget that to pay $50 (after tax dollars) for a ready made
> harness, you need to make about $75 gross.
> And of course, the joy of making your own things is priceless!!!! (gag)
>
> > When the time comes, I'll buy 2 harnesses from suvlights.com since I've
> > got 2 V8s... Plus the one on jackstands for 4 years... (actually 3
> > years, 11 months and 17 days). I'll seal the connections with a dab of
> > silicone to make them splash resistant.
>
> **** And check the relays themselves, some are not waterproof. If you do
not
> use a relay protective housing, it may pay to seal the relays at the
> lug/plastic interface and at the body/cover interface.
>
> I've been playing with my assortment of relays, and the black, 40 amp,
Bosch
> relays ( P/N 431 951 253 H) are sealed units. The grey, "SHO" label relays
> are not sealed.
>
> Now I have a question for you Dave. In stores, one can find many parts
such
> as replacement battery cables and car stereo wires with connectors for #8,
> #6, #4 wires. I have wondered how do they expect the purchaser to crimp
> these things? Hammer and punch?
> I once had a chit chat with a car radio tech at Circuit City regarding
> crimps and crimping . . . . "Oh yeah, for the smaller stuff I use a pair
of
> dikes . .and for the big stuff I use a big  hammer."   No thanks, I'll do
my
> own work.
>
> >
> > Dave
> > EMCM(SW) retired
> > once one of 4 people in the Navy certified to crimp 4160V reactor
> > coolant pump cabling.
> > Application Engineer
> > Cardinal Health - Automation and Information Services
>
> SJ
> Jack of all Trades . . . . you have to be if you own your own house . .and
> have 2 Audis and one Dodge truck.
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 12:27:06 -0500
> From: "TM" <t44tq at mindspring.com>
> Subject: RE: new audi A8  W12
> To: "'Brett Dikeman'" <brett at cloud9.net>, "'Bob DAmato'"
> <bob at audisport.com>, "'quattro'" <quattro at audifans.com>
> Message-ID: <003001c3b50b$ae46d050$0200a8c0 at newpc>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Sorry Brett, but I have to say YAWNNNNN!
>
> :-)
>
> M-B AMG S65/CL65 has 600+ hp and similar torque
> figures (don't have the exact figures in front of
> me), is coming to the US, but price tag around
> $200k. 6L twin turbo V12, basically a souped-up
> Maybach engine, would be even more powerful if the
> transmission could take it.
>
> 0-60 is in the 4.2s range, does the 1/4 in the 12s.
>
> I gotta admit the Maybach is one very impressive luxury
> car, though- I couldn't hear the engine idling, even
> outside of the car, very impressive, only indication of
> the engine being on was the heat generated that you could
> feel standing next to it with the A/C on full blast and
> a DVD movie playing in 5.1 surround sound inside.
>
> Taka
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 12:49:25 -0500
> From: SJ <syljay at optonline.net>
> Subject: '89 Audi 100 Heater questions
> To: quattro at audifans.com
> Cc: conner at cfm.Ohio-State.edu
> Message-ID: <010501c3b50e$cc58ff20$0b1fc444 at dell450>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> The blower motor is working?
>
> What happens when you put the A/C control on "Auto" and set the
temperature
> to 80? Do you get hot air flowing?
>
> "Heat Regulator"?  Do you mean the hot water valve in the back of the
> engine?
>
> This valve only shuts off the hot water when in "Auto", so forget my
> previous statement.
> But, you can disable this valve . . .valve is normally open . .  .
.remove
> the vacuum hose and plug the hose with a nail. Then see if you get heat
when
> in "Auto" and at 80.
>
> Also, check to make sure the recirculating air flap spring is intact and
> attached. This may have nothing to do with your heating problem . . .then
> again, it may.
> Passenger footwell . .on your back . .with flashlight . . .look up. You
will
> see a plastic grill . .on the other side you will see a door flap. If its
> open already, you will readily see the spring. If its closed, the spring
is
> ok . . .. this door wont close if spring or attachment points are broken.
> But, you can play with the Climate Control buttons till you see this flap
> operating normally.
> This spring and the upper attachment point are common failures in our
cars.
>
> Let us know what you find.
>
> The next step will be to check the operation of the A/C Programmer heater
> flap cable . . . not hard to do . . .next time though.
>
> SJ
> 85 Dodge PU, D-250, 318, auto
> 85 Audi 4k - - sold but still on the road
> 88 Audi 5kq
> 90 Audi 100q
>
> ==============
> All,
>
> Now that I have great information on the transmission, let's tackle the
> heater.  No warm air comes out regardless of what we do in the passenger
> compartment.  I did look under the hood and the heater regulator seems to
be
> functioning.  I am unfamiliar with this aspect of the car and only possess
a
> Haynes manual, which is one step removed from useless.  The temperature
> readings seem to be correct as displayed on the dash and the air
conditioner
> works very well (we live in New Orleans, the heater is a nice to have, the
> A/C is critical).
>
> As always, thanks for the help!
>
> Case
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 11:42:55 -0700
> From: "Al Powell" <apowell at gocougs.wsu.edu>
> Subject: Headlight wiring harness
> To: <quattro at audifans.com>
> Message-ID: <BPEGLFDNGGDDBECLDDPAMENECCAA.apowell at gocougs.wsu.edu>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> "R. Mair" <waves at epix.net> said:
>
> >$55 for a harness!?! Sheesh, for about $15 you can buy a Bosch 30 amp
> relay,
> >with plastic connector, with about 2 feet of wire already clipped into
the
> >connector, AND a fuse and holder. One of these will handle either high or
> >low beams. Buy two and do both. You can have the whole thing rigged up in
> >less than an hour and the wire is heavy enough for anything you'll ever
> draw
> >through it.
>
> OR - buy the very nice headlight relay wiring harness I took out of my
1990
> 200 before I sold it.  It's a double-relay harness, ready to install. No
> directions, but you can figure it out.  Email me for a picture.
>
> Based on the comment by Mair, first offer of $15 plus $5 shipping takes
it.
> C'mon, I want to get it out of here and someone must need it...
>
> ************************************
> Al Powell
> apowell at gocougs.wsu.edu
> 1958 Fiat 1200 Transformabile Spyder
> 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo
> 1993 Audi 90Q
> 1997 Chebby Blazer
> 1999 Chebby Blazer
> ************************************
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> quattro mailing list
> quattro at audifans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro
>
>
> End of quattro Digest, Vol 1, Issue 39
> **************************************