CQ/7A turbo conversion questions
Denis
sparkplugvw at hotmail.com
Thu Apr 15 13:22:34 EDT 2004
Use a 2.3 NA block with your head.
You ll get 8.1 approx CR.
Use k24 from S4
Thre is the best place and cheapest i foung for SS tubes to make
headers.ALLIAGESUNIFIES
2800 de Miniac St.
St. Laurent QC Canada H4S 1K9
t. 514.331.1339
f. 514.331.1775
http://www.alliagesunifies.com
2800 de Miniac St.
St. Laurent QC Canada H4S 1K9
t. 514.331.1339
f. 514.331.1775
http://www.unifiedalloys.com
Call intended acceleration for some pics about he did good one, for some
good tricks to make one.
Ask to Jim here and Javad. One did with a T03 flange and Jim with a
k24,k26 flange.
You can also get a Autocad draw of the SS flanges. (i heve it but i need
to search, i m in lunch right now ;-) )
You can use the new the Megasquirt AVR (VEMS:Versatile Engine Management
Systems) or Megasquirt , the Ultra coming soon , much cheaper than others
but it need to adjust parameters and it s not a plug and play system, but
very versatil.
The Javad unit is a very good one, almost plug and play and dictated for 5
cylinders.
Go see 034 site, Nates and Javad are posting much of time there now..
Ðenis J
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Thorp" <thorp at spacia.org>
To: <quattro at audifans.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2004 12:32 PM
Subject: CQ/7A turbo conversion questions
> I'm looking to do a turbo conversion on my '90 CQ. I'm planning on
> rebuilding a motor and going to an aftermarket EFI system (probably
> Javad's).
>
> What I've currently got:
> A 1990 CQ with ~130kmi
> A 5000cstq with ~210kmi
>
> I was planning on doing an MC1 swap into the CQ, but the more I looked
> at it, the better turboing the 7A looked. I know there has been a fair
> bit of discussion on this, but I have yet to find solid information on
> what it would take. It looks like I could run the 7A's head as-is
> because it already had sodium filled exhaust valves, reasonable cams,
> and is a 20v. I would need to make a header with appropriate flanges,
> do the intake and IC plumbing, lower the compression, and maybe better
> crank bearings.
>
> To lower the compression, it looks like my options are: more/thicker
> headgaskets (kludge), or new pistons or connecting rods. I did some
> calculations, and to get to 8:1 from 10.3:1 would take a rod that was
> 3mm shorter. Is calculation correct and doable? Or would new pistons
> be a better/cheaper route?
>
> Beyond these changes, what would I need to do? As this is my first
> major project, am I missing something really obvious (it seems like this
> isn't really ever done)?
>
> TIA,
> Chris
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