Denis was:must find a way to get home without fuel regulator:100Q fuel

[Denis]

  I checked ant leaks with ether aroung the intake. The engine was not accelerating when i putted ether around the boot or any hoses. The only place i got accelerate is around the aluminium intake close to the head.

  I ll probably need another Fuel Pressure Regulator. At least i can try another pump, my V8 pump is sitting and i ll try if the presssure is bigger.

  I would like to fit a SAAB 99 adjustable  fuel regulator... at least i can adjust it...

  For Christmis i got my father's engine tune up tools. He used them for more than 20 years and are very well maintained :-). The tool box included a timing light, couple vac meter, compression meter and couple connectors...and i got an impact tool :-)


  Ðenis
    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: SuffolkD at aol.com 
    To: quattro at audifans.com ; smitty at pcrealm.net ; sparkplugvw at hotmail.com 
    Sent: Sunday, December 26, 2004 1:33 PM
    Subject: Re: Denis was:must find a way to get home without fuel regulator:100Q fuel 


    Denis: 
    The black rubber waffle boot from the air/fuel distributor plate to the Intake Manifold needs to be PERFECTLY sealed tight. 

    This will cause air leaks into the engine and lean running IF running AT ALL. 

    Take a bottle of starting fluid (either) and spray into the black rubber waffle boot then place the boot over the fuel distributor plate.  Start engine, it should run fast then die off.  this shows air leak in the black rubber boot sealing to the fuel distributor / air plate. 

    This should address the air/fuel intake to the engine but NOT the wet fuel in the cylinders........................ 

    The black rubber waffle boot should be clamped down with the stainless steel band clamp around it sealing the boot end to the round metal air plate. 

    If you can run the motor on either sprays every two seconds the fuel delivery from the distrib is the problem.  The two screw FPR(is it the DPR instead ?) in front of the fuel distributor should read 1000 ohms or so across its two terminals.  or a fixed value.  NOT blinking (open circuit) or rising values towards infinity "oo" (open circuit) 

    Going further back the fuel filters should be NEW in addition to "checked" and the fuel pump verified good fuel (its new) output. 

    Follow the list advice on a sticking or binding air plate under the black rubber waffle boot seal to the fuel distributor....... 

    HTH -Scott from BOSTON 


      From: Frederick Smith <> 
      Vacuum makes it work, the engine is an air pump................ as the 
      pistons move down 
      they draw in air, through the air filter , lifting the air damper plate. 
      The air damaper plate 
      moves the valve in the center of the FD and the injectors "squirt". 
      There isn't any way to 
      operate the injectors without lifting the plate, that is how it is 
      supposed to work. If it 
      doesn't move ("lift") when cranking, then there is a massive leak 
      somewhere in the 
      intake tract, the valve timing is off, there is low compression etc., 
      etc. Of course if you 
      have low fuel pressure...............even if the air damper moves, the 
      pressure may not be 
      adequate to operate the injectors. 

      A methodical, step by step diagnosis will find the problem 
      (and it seems there are a FEWdifferent ones in your case). Get the 
      vacuum system "tight", 
      then fix the fuel pressure problem. When that stuff is up to par you 
      might have a chance at 
      a total fix, not much hope before that IMHO.