Clutch slave replacement [was Re: Thinking about getting a Mechanicaly-challened '88 90Q]

[Ben Swann]

Assuming the specifics of clutch slave location are the same as on the older transmissions of the 4kq's and coupes, it is doable in situ although somewhat of a PITA.

I have found one tool that takes the job out of the realm of impossible is a compact air chisel.  There is not really any room to swing a hammer to get the retaining pin out.  Use an air chisel and the proper punch or drift fitting to get the pin started out and follow through with a bolt or pin that is just small enough to fit inside the hole without getting stuck, but large enough to mate with the hollow pin.  

After futile attempt of removal with a hammer for hours, I was able to have the pin out in minutes with the proper setup - actually once you have the right combination, it is out like "BRAAAP' in seconds.  Just break your arm in a few places to position the air chisel and punch - then let the air do the rest.

I recommend trying a thorough bleeding of master and slave first, as this may fix the problem and at least will get you familiar with what needs to be done if replacement is required.

Ben

[> The slave cylinder is INSIDE the clutch bell housing on this car?!

Did I really put it that way?  Must have been half asleep... it is on 
the top of the bell housing, and a bear to remove because of limited 
access, but it can be done.

> I was talking to a local member here in Seattle that works for a used
> Audi parts shop and he was telling me about engine/tranny removal on these
> cars... From what this guy tells me, the tranny and motor must
> come out together and furthermore must come out the BOTTOM! I cant even
> phantom how I am going to get the car high enough (and stable so it doesn't
> fall on me) to do that.

As bad as the job can be, it can also go very quickly.]