[urq] Help needed: Door hinges pin replacement

[Louis-Alain Richard]

> The pin actually finishes flush with the bottom of the hinge.

Thanks Jim, that's the kind of info that I needed.

In fact, for now I followed Huw's suggestion and placed some washers between
the hinge and the door but this is just temporary. 
For some reasons, I believed that I would be able to do it in one evening
without much fuss. Dreamer you said? No job is a one evening affair on that
22 year old car...

Oh well...

So after moving the door about 6 inches (without cutting wires, supporting
the door in the middle on my trusty floor jack) there was enough space for
my 2 lbs hammer and a 8 inch long punch. But after a dozen strong blows,
nothing moved so I wondered if the pin was bottomed... Guess I need more
force... or heat... And more conviction! 
And if I succeed, then another problem arise: the bottom hinge is too close
from the door sill to be able to push the pin all the way so I will have to
cut it mid-way in the process.  Hum, maybe that grinder will come handy
then...

Regarding the reinstallation, the 2 short bottom bolts are very deep in the
door and with my not-so-little-hands, I was not able to reinstall them
easily.
So I looked for an alternative.
Looking in my used bolt bin, I found the perfect stud+nut conversion kit:
the 8mm exhaust manifold studs and bolts I replaced last summer (never
dispose of anything metallic is my motto). 
The treaded length is perfect when you wind the nut backwards until it stops
(in the middle of the stud) and you get a much longer reach to install
them...
Then, a 12mm deep socket is all you need to torque them perfectly.

Necessity is the mother of invention they say.

In conclusion, I will have to practice on another car (Brady's doesn't know
it yet, but it will be its parts car...he he he...) and then I will try a
trick someone posted not so long ago: use an air chisel with a long punch
instead of an hammer. I guess this is a good reason to buy one! Brappp! 

More to follow!

Louis-Alain
83 urQ


-----Message d'origine-----
De : Jim Haseltine [mailto:jim_haseltine at ntlworld.com] 

The pin actually finishes flush with the bottom of the hinge.

It just so happens that a couple of weeks ago I cut a large hunk of door
pillar from a scrap CGT. After I'd carefully removed the pieces I needed I
was left with a piece that had the lower hinge attached. Because I had
nothing better to do for a few minutes I put the hinge in my vice and
punched out the pin.

Not easy, it took some concentrated force, nothing like the light taps that
I've used to remove Ford & Rover door pins. Doing this with the hinge still
on the pillar would be difficult - I was about to suggest some sort of press
would be easier but it would need to apply major pressure - the risk of tool
failure wouold be high.

Regards,

Jim Haseltine


----- Original Message ----- 
Anybody has a clue how to replace the door hinge pin/bushings in an urQ?

I guess 4000 doors hinges are the same, as well as type 43 cars. Same part
numbers anyway.

The pin seems to be press fit from the top but there is no opening at the
bottom to push it upwards. I tried to drill a small hole from the bottom but
the metal is at least as hard as my drill bits.

The only way I can figure now is to un-weld it from the car and weld in a
new one.  I guess there is an easier way.

Door is unbolted from the hinges but the wiring harness keeps it close to
the body. I got 2 new pins (433 831 421A) and 2 new bushings (433 831 441)
today.

Please chime in before I attack the bottom of the hinge with my grinder.

Louis-Alain
83 urQ with a sagging driver side door