new to Audi, new to the list

Phil Payne quattro at isham-research.com
Fri Feb 27 12:40:09 EST 2004


> 1) the after-run coolant pump has been "deleted" - I'm guessing because it
> may have developed a coolant leak.  I understand that this pump circulates
> coolant after shutdown in conjunction with the cooling fan to cool the
> waterjacket and the (water-cooled) turbo.  How frequently does the
> afterun cooling system operate - is it only after "spirited" driving with
> hot ambient temperatures, or is it pretty much any time the engine has
> been heated to operating temperature and the ambient temperatures are 70F
> or greater?  Is there a good (read: inexpensive) source for these pumps?
> I do not have the old one, so rebuilding is not an option.  My immediate
> area is (painfully) devoid of any Audi parts cars of this vintage, however
> I may be able to find something a little further afield.

It runs routinely, but not for very long.  The Type 44 I'm currently driving doesn't have one
either and I think it may have done 100k miles in that state.

> 2) the hydraulic pump is leaking - in persuing the archives I've learned
> that this is not uncommon.  There is a rebuild kit (or a few o-rings and a
> seal, anyways) available from the dealer for around $50 CDN.  Has anyone
> successfully rebuilt their hydraulic pump?  I understand the procedure is
> detailed in the Bentley (which I hope to have by the first of the week)
> but I would appreciate any advice based on personal experience that can be
> offered, as the alternative is a $250 CDN rebuilt unit.

I've done several.  You can get each pulley bolt out by bracing against the other two.  I get
the pulley off with a cold chisel behind it - I've bent a couple of pulleys with pullers.  The
triangular boss underneath needs a GOOD puller - I use a Sykes Pikavant hydraulic one.  When
the boss first moves, it will scare the crap out of you.

Strip off the caps and pistons first - try to get everything possible done before you split
the pump.  Get it back together as soon as you can.  A wooden workbench is best - try to avoid
ANY damage to the faces, especially the extreme edges.  Move unused metal tools off the bench.
Once it's back together, replace the caps, etc.

The slightest impact on the edge of the faces will cause the pump to not seal.  Even dings
invisible to the naked eye - though you can usually feel them.

You need to heat the boss to drop it back on.  Make sure you have something to protect the new
shaft seal from the heat as the boss lands - I use a spread set of feeler gauges.  Oil the
shaft seal before fitting it, obviously.

-- 
  Phil Payne
  http://www.isham-research.com
  +44 7785 302 803



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