sheared crank

[Matt Evans]

I had exactly this failure on my S38 BMW engine, and performed exactly the
repair you describe. (jb welding the woodruff key into the keyway, rebuilding
the keyway where crank material was lost with additional jb weld)


It's been good for over a year and the motor sees 7000 rpm quite often.

One thing i'd add - 
	lock tite sleeve retainer (blue tube, green goop, i think)
	between the crank snout and hub assembly, if appropriate
	locktite red on the threads (if appropriate)

Good luck!

> Subject: sheared woodruff key on crank pulley
> To: "Quattro at Audifans.Com" <quattro at audifans.com>
> Message-ID: <000001c3cf46$ed232670$0200a8c0 at ahmwk9ikopja1c>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Hi guys!
>  
> Patient: 1987 4KQ w/ 152K on it. 
> Project: Timing Belt (now Timing Belt from Hell)
>  
> Looking at the harmonic balancer I noticed that the driving belt
> sprocket (timing belt) had a sheared woodruff key.
> After further inspection of the crank, I also noticed that its notch was
> damaged (about a 1/4" of the left wall is chipped away)
> (the previous owner explained, " it has intermittent compression - it
> doesn't run" )
> The harmonic balancer was definitely loose due to an improperly torqued
> CRANK BOLT!
>  
> Today I found another Driving Belt Sprocket.
>  
> My question is - can I just use the new Driving Belt Sprocket w/ the
> intact Woodruff Key on the slightly damaged crank or do I have to get 
> a new crank? Are there any alternatives (like building up the wall with
> J B Weld or a real weld)?