URGENT: 10v head (NF) broken! What to do?

Richard Hoffman billzcat1 at hotmail.com
Sat May 8 02:00:36 EDT 2004


Hello Jim!

Got it all taken care of.  Tig welded the tower, plasti-gauged the cam and
found another cam cap from a junk head that worked out perfectly.  I was
very suprised; it seems luck was in our favor this time around!  The motor
is together and will be going into the car tomorrow morning.  Staying with
the CIS-E on the 4kq, so it should be running by tomorrow night.

We used the "drop engine/trans/subframe/front suspension method of lifting
the car off the motor.  Made it very easy to get out; under 3 hours parked
to pulled.  Getting it back in should be fun ;)

TTYL
Richard
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Green" <jeg1976 at yahoo.com>
To: "Richard Hoffman" <billzcat1 at hotmail.com>
Cc: "Quattro list" <quattro at audifans.com>
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2004 6:26 PM
Subject: Re: URGENT: 10v head (NF) broken! What to do?


>
> --- Richard Hoffman <billzcat1 at hotmail.com> wrote:
> > Hello all!
> > I'm in a bit of a pickle.
> >
> > Building an NF motor, 2.3L 10v.   Head was rebuilt
> > by a
> > not-as-competant-as-I'd-like machinist but it was
> > just a valve guides/stem
> > seals/one angle valve job.  The cam has .020"
> > runout.  New aftermarket
> > lifters (from Rob at TPC). .005" milled as well.
> >
> > The problem: when torquing the cam caps down, the
> > rear-most cam cap broke in
> > half with a nice little *pop* and at the same time
> > one stud broke the cam
> > tower with 3 radial cracks. The cam was being
> > torqued evenly across the head
> > when it cracked, and it was still about 1/8" from
> > being tight.  I've heard
> > of cam caps cracking when they are finally torqued,
> > but never so far from
> > the head before.
>
> Holly crap!  I've never seen that!  It sounds like the
> cam caps were backwards when you put them on?  As far
> as the head bolts, I hate those stupid things for this
> exact reason.  They really should not be re-used once
> torqued.  For under $100 you can get ARP head studs
> from Summit and never have to worry again.  A line
> bore can't be that much can it?  So you'd need a new
> cap, head STUDS:), HG, and a line bore.
>
> Now, everyone, buy some short shifters from Richard so
> he can fix his car!  I have one and my car runs 12.7
> quarters mile times, all thanks to the Billzcat short
> shifter kit.  Ok, well, it had something to do with
> it.
>
>
> =====
> Jim Green
> '89 90tq
> '89 80q
> http://www.mswanson.com/~jgreen/car_home.html
>
>
>
>
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