I live in Seattle, where should I take my car?
Eric_R_Kissell at whirlpool.com
Eric_R_Kissell at whirlpool.com
Wed May 12 08:15:41 EDT 2004
"John Larson" <j.d.larson at verizon.net> wrote:
>Ahh, yes, another Firestone (or other mass market outlet) story. First
>mistake, wish you'd mentioned it earlier! John's rule #1. NEVER take
your
>car to one of the places where the manager is likely to be on a first name
>basis with the state attorney general. And not because they're golfing
>buddies, either. The reason they're nearly all gone from much of
California
>is because they were forced to close here, and I know the problems aren't
>just here. Find a real brake and alignment shop (no, not Midas) and have
>them do it. HTH, John
Or, do what I do. You have two options:
1. Align it yourself. I have been very successful getting cars set up where
I like the feel and handling without any abnormal tire wear. There are a
number of DIY alignment procedures on the internet, including some that
have been posted to our own qlist.
2. Sweet talk your way so that you can be in the shop to advise the
technician about how you want the alignment set. In this case I am
essentially trying to gain access to the nifty alignment equipment so I can
get things dialed in where I like it - the technician is just a necessary
evil along for the ride.
Prior to taking a car to an alignment shop you should always ensure that
every bolt and adjuster is free and (easily) moveable. One of the first
things I did on each of my Type 44's after I purchased it was to
systematically break loose things like the front tie rod adjusters and then
disassemble them so that I could apply a liberal amount of anti-seize to
the threaded and sliding sections. I like to use the copper colored
Permatex high temperature anti-seize because it seems more tenacious and
last longer than some other styles I have tried. Any tie rod end that was
seriously corroded or abused (e.g. no more flats to put the wrenches onto)
was replaced, even if the actual tie rod end was still working fine. The
easier it is to turn the alignment adjustments, the easier it is to get a
good alignment. This way, if you are working at the alignment rack with the
technician you can tell him to adjust any adjuster without fear of his
wrath because the adjuster is not going to be stuck. Now if you car is
bent, then you need a high skill alignment/frame straightening shop so do
not mess around with the chains. But if you just want access to the
alignment equipment so you can direct the proper alignment of you car, then
some chain places are useful - just do not leave these guys unsupervised.
Also, be aware that some of these places might not have their equipment set
up right. I have no BTDT but it is a possibility.
Most shops in more populated areas will claim that their insurance and/or
lawyers will not allow customers in the shop. If you cannot sweet-talk or
pester your way into the shop so you can watch the work and request
specific alignment settings, then I would consider a different shop or DIY.
Sometimes going out of the city to a small town is an option. Once, when I
was on a trip and hit something in the road which made me question the
alignment, I was forced to use the "need something out of the car" ploy and
then I just hung around asking questions and making request. Whatever it
takes...
HTH,
Eric Kissell
1991 200q 20v Avant, Koni Sports (yellow), 2.4 Bar (MRC), eBay Surprise
1989 200q 10v Avant, Boge Turbogas, 1.8 Bar (qlcc) - FOR SALE
1986 5000cstq Sedan, Bilsteins, 1.8 Bar (SJM)
More information about the quattro
mailing list