[s-cars] C4 chassis remote lock help

[Larry C Leung]

Bummer. Didn't work. Holding down both buttons on the remote for 15
seconds did
nothing. Is there any history of the remotes failing? I checked the
voltage on the new
battery (I know, not under load) and it was at 3.26 V. Any other
suggestions?

LL - NY

On Mon, 17 May 2004 21:26:33 -0400 "Tom Mullane" <tmullane at snet.net>
writes:
> Larry, I just went through some of this with my 95.5 and my A6.  Got 
> plenty
> of replies here and was able to figure it out.
>  
> The 95.5 is different from the earlier cars - there is a different 
> procedure
> for programming the keys.  If you ask at Audi, tell them your car is 
> a 1996
> A6; it's just easier than trying to educate them.
> 
> This is well documented in the archives, but it's easier to just 
> write them
> out than to look them up:
> 1.Open the driver's door.
> 2.Take one key and turn on the ignition.
> 3.Close the driver's door.
> 4.Lock the car with a second key.
> 5.Push down both buttons of the remote and hold them.
> 6.The lights will flash and the car will unlock.
> 7.Open the driver's door.
> 8.Remove the key from the ignition.
> 
> If you are programming several remotes, I have had the best success 
> by
> programming them all at once:
> When the first remote synchronizes and the doors unlock in step 6, 
> return to
> step 4 and program the second remote.
> 
> The first remote programmed will automagically be associated with 
> seat
> memory position 1, the second key with 2, etc.  In my case, this is 
> fine for
> the S6, for which my wife and I each have separate remotes, but for 
> my A6 I
> have one remote and do not want it associated with any seat 
> positions; this
> car is driven by 5 or 6 different people.  It is my guess that if 
> you turn
> the memory seat off while programming the fob, it will not 
> associate.  I
> have not had the time to figure this out on the A6, but I will post 
> when I
> do.
> 
> As for the key/lock problem, it's probably just lack of use and you 
> have the
> right plan of attack.  The trunk may be an exception.  If you are 
> using the
> valet key (a bit fatter than the regular key) you will not be able 
> to get it
> in.  The dealer can cut you a new key by the VIN of the car.  They 
> will tell
> you that they can't, because this was not available until 1996.  Show 
> them
> the key and ask them to try.  The "cheap" key is about 60 bucks.
> 
> HTH
> 
> Tom Mullane
> 1995.5 S6 with not one, but 2 working remotes.
> 
> 
> Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 18:53:58 -0400
> From: Larry C Leung <l.leung at juno.com>
> Subject: [s-cars] C4 chassis remote lock help
> To: s-car-list at audifans.com
> Cc: quattro at audifans.com
> Message-ID: <20040517.185622.504.0.l.leung at juno.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Looking for collective list wisdom on some lock issues on my
> new to me 95.5 S6.
> 
> The remote locking (radio type, two button) had been working
> with the car correctly until this past Friday where it simply 
> failed
> to lock the car. I locked the car manually (pushing the plungers,
> didn't know about the power lock toggle on the driver's door
> until later) and noted that the trunk did NOT lock, apparently
> correct if I pushed plungers. I guess I expected things to work
> like my 200Q (1.8 bar, H+R's, still for sale), so I was surprised
> that pushing the driver's plunger didn't work the power locks. 
> I assumed the remote's battery had failed, and had to wait until
> after work to get a new one, once I got home to find out what
> the battery was (2032 CR Lithium, in case anyone wants to know)
> as there were no tools at work.
> 
> Later, upon getting home, I locked the car using the passenger's
> plunger, trunk was open at the time. When I closed the trunk,
> the alarm armed. It was then I noticed the first problem.
> 
> 1.         Has anyone with a C4 car had great difficulty getting the 
> key
>             into the lock cylinders? Is this just a lack of use 
> issue, or
> a
>             central lock issue (would be interesting if the car can
> prevent
>             the key being used if the alarm is set off. Super 
> Security),
> or 
>             perhaps possible vandalism. I finally got the driver's 
> and 
>             passenger's doors locks to accept and turn with the key, 
> but
>             it took a lot of forcing, scraping with a pick and lube 
> to
> get
>             things to work. I STILL can't get a key into the trunk 
> past
>             halfway. I have noted the storm flap over the key hole
> doesn't
>             appear to be there. I did scrape out some dried looking 
> grey
>             stuff, but the feeling of the key being blocked felt 
> more 
>             mechanical rather than dirt or worse still, super 
> glue....   
> 
>             Note, the keys for this car are the internal cut kind.
> 2.        The second problem is, even with the new battery, the 
> remote
>            seems to have absolutely no effect. It doesn't activate 
> the
> locks,
>            the alarm, nor do any lights flash in response. The alarm 
> does
> 
>            arm now that I have the keys working to lock the car. 
> 
> Things I did to reset the remote:
> 
> 1.        Totally disconnected the battery for close to ten minutes. 
> No
> effect.
> 2.        Taka M used VAG-COM to pull codes on the car. There 
> apparently
>                 are either no codes w/rt the central locking, or 
> there is
> no way for
>                 VAG-COM to access central locking.
> 3.        I tried Fred Munro's procedure to resynch the alarm and 
> the
> remote.
>                 No effect, mostly because the remote seems to be 
> doing
> nothing. 
>                 (at least I think it's doing nothing).
> 
> Anyone have any ideas what to do next to:
>         Activate the remote?
>         Access the trunk lock?
> 
> TIA, sorry for the long post.
> 
> LL - NY
> 
> 
> 
> 
>