Subframe, Swaybar and Control Arm Replacement Nuts and Bolts

Louis-Alain_Richard at computerhorizons.com Louis-Alain_Richard at computerhorizons.com
Fri Nov 12 10:29:31 EST 2004


I totally agree with Ameer.
I just bought 8 subframe bolts from dealer last week and they were 
4.54$CAN. 
The reason I bit the bullet? 
I asked the list ...:-)

I first installed some generic bolts (from the dealer fastener cabinet...) 
with the same specs (M10x75). But when I torqued them, I felt like they 
were not torqued enough. After replacing them cheap bolts with the real 
OEM expensive bolts, I can assure you that the feeling (when torquing 
them) is a lot more positive. In fact, it's like the right bolts are 10x 
stiffer. You'll see.

Louis-Alain




Ameer Antar <antar at comcast.net> 
Sent by: quattro-bounces at audifans.com
2004-11-12 09:27
Please respond to
Ameer Antar <antar at comcast.net>


To
"Matt Evans" <matt at mattevans.org>
cc
'Brett Goetz' <brett.goetz at rtp.ppdi.com>, Quattro list 
<quattro at audifans.com>
Subject
RE: Subframe, Swaybar and Control Arm Replacement Nuts and Bolts






You're probably OK using the bolts you got as long as you use the same 
class bolt that you took out (except any stretch bolts). Actually, on my 
car I reused the large bolts on the inner control arm bushing. They were 
very large and covered with oil, so they weren't even rusty and were very 
usable. I doubt that these bolts would need to be changed too often. The 
ones that should definitely go are the bolts on the outer end of the 
control arms. I'm not sure but I think these might be stretch bolts due to 
the torque sequence. 

For Brett I think the really important bolts are the large bolts that hold 
the subframe to the main frame rails. These are definitely stretch bolts, 
which I would only get from the dealer. They're like M12x1.5x98mm I think, 
so this would be an odd size to find at a local store, at least here in 
CT. I really don't know what the design difference between a stretch bolt 
and regular bolt is, but I wouldn't want to find out the hard way. And 
there's really not much of a savings when you're buying a few bolts...The 
subframe bolts were the most expensive at $3 a piece, the rest under $1 or 
2. For all these reasons, I think the dealer is the best for suspension 
hardware. I used lots of stainless on non-critical parts, and found a box 
of M8 and M6 locknuts and washers really handy. 

-Ameer

----Original Message----

To: "'Ameer Antar'" <antar at comcast.net>,
From: "Matt Evans" <matt at mattevans.org>
Date: 11/12/2004 3:02:04 AM
Subject: RE: Subframe, Swaybar and Control Arm Replacement Nuts and Bolts

Unless the t44 is vastly different then the 89 in this regard, then I have
to disagree :)

I just removed all 4 control arms, and all 8 CA bushings.  I bead blasted
and finished the control arms, and then put new bushings back in.

I bought brand new zinc coated metric 10.9 bolts from a local store called
"Mac's Hardware".  They have an entire wall of metric hardware in black,
stainless, and zinc dichromate.

They sell this hardware for $4.99/lb.

Only gotcha - the items I took off were 17mm, the ones I put on were 16mm.
Same thread pitch, shaft diameter, etc.  Just different fastener sizes,
oddly enough.

I'll mail the list if my bolts snap and my control arms come flying off 
from
not using dealer bolts :)



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