Subframe, Swaybar and Control Arm Replacement Nuts and Bolts
Steve Sears
steve.sears at soil-mat.on.ca
Fri Nov 12 10:46:50 EST 2004
The subframe bolts on the t44 have a "dog point" on them - sort of like an
unthreaded tip - which probably bottoms out in the frame rails when it
stretches out. When I had the local "Bug Shop" (Hamilton, Ontario) do my
suspension rebuild, I saw them reuse the subframe bolts. At the time I
didn't question it - just questioned them dipping the end of the bolt in
grease before screwing them back in (???). (Subsequent to that, I found out
they failed to tighten the strut top nuts on one strut - which caused me to
almost catapult into oncoming traffic - they also installed the strut boot
upside down - and tried to convince me that the FA picture was wrong - and I
suspect that they didn't re-seal the rear diff that I paid them to
do......sigh) I'll be replacing the s/f bolts next week.
The family album shows the correct type of bolt for the strut clamp to the
lower ball joint. The grade of steel is important, but also the amount of
unthreaded "shoulder" - it's important to make sure that the ball joint is
bearing completely on the solid steel "shoulder", and not threads - lest you
wish to repeat Marc's experience.
Cheers!
Steve Sears
1987 Audi 5kTQ
1980 Audi 5k
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
----- Original Message -----
> From: Ameer Antar <antar at comcast.net>
> Subject: RE: Subframe, Swaybar and Control Arm Replacement Nuts and
> Bolts
> To: "Matt Evans" <matt at mattevans.org>
> Cc: 'Brett Goetz' <brett.goetz at rtp.ppdi.com>, Quattro list
> <quattro at audifans.com>
> Message-ID: <20041112142714.9E8A04C6DB1 at audifans.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> You're probably OK using the bolts you got as long as you use the same
class bolt that you took out (except any stretch bolts). Actually, on my car
I reused the large bolts on the inner control arm bushing. They were very
large and covered with oil, so they weren't even rusty and were very usable.
I doubt that these bolts would need to be changed too often. The ones that
should definitely go are the bolts on the outer end of the control arms. I'm
not sure but I think these might be stretch bolts due to the torque
sequence.
>
> For Brett I think the really important bolts are the large bolts that hold
the subframe to the main frame rails. These are definitely stretch bolts,
which I would only get from the dealer. They're like M12x1.5x98mm I think,
so this would be an odd size to find at a local store, at least here in CT.
I really don't know what the design difference between a stretch bolt and
regular bolt is, but I wouldn't want to find out the hard way. And there's
really not much of a savings when you're buying a few bolts...The subframe
bolts were the most expensive at $3 a piece, the rest under $1 or 2. For all
these reasons, I think the dealer is the best for suspension hardware. I
used lots of stainless on non-critical parts, and found a box of M8 and M6
locknuts and washers really handy.
>
> -Ameer
>
>
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