Easy subframe bushings replacement

Iain Atkinson iain.atkinson at eastbourne.audi.co.uk
Thu Oct 21 04:20:54 EDT 2004


Torque settings are 10v 35ft llbs 90deg turn and 20v 65ftllbs 90 deg turn,
tightening sequence rear left,rear right,front left, front right and then
for the front, front right, front left, rear right, rear left.

all courtesy of phil paynes site, credit where credit is due.


iain
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ameer Antar" <antar at comcast.net>
To: <Louis-Alain_Richard at computerhorizons.com>
Cc: "Quattro list" <quattro at audifans.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2004 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: Easy subframe bushings replacement


> Those bolts are s'posed to be stretch bolts, that's why the directions in
the Bentley say to turn to a very low torque and then tighten a certain
number of degree's. I'm fairly certain that a regular 8.8 bolt is different
from the OE stretch bolts. You really should buy the OE bolts and for now
tighten the bolts to the proper torque for their size. I think the normal
torque for class 8.8 is like this:
> M6 - 7 ft/lbs
> M8 - 15 ft/lbs
> M10 - 33 ft/lbs
> M12 - 66 ft/lbs
>
> not sure about other sizes, but you could look it up in a metric torque
chart. I have a chart if you need one.
>
> Also just keep in mind that grade 8.8 is not the same as class 8.8. It's
confusing since the numbers are the same, but the term 'class' is for metric
only and 'grade' is for SAE only. Class 8.8 is around a grade 5 fastener as
someone already mentioned.
>
> No need for loctite if the shop manual doesn't mention it. I think that's
what those stretch bolts are all about. I know they ain't cheap, but I think
your safety is worth it. Not that regular bolts are dangerous, but they just
weren't designed for that suspension, and you already had problems finding
the proper torque. bite the bullet... I think I got 4 of 'em for $12 at the
dealer. good luck.
>
> -Ameer
>
> ----Original Message----
> Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2004 16:26:29 -0400
> From: Louis-Alain_Richard at computerhorizons.com
> Subject: Easy subframe bushings replacement
> To: urq at audifans.com, quattro at audifans.com
> Message-ID:
>
<OFB203CCFA.E53EAB15-ON85256F33.006D9C23-85256F33.007049E5 at computerhorizons.
com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
> Hi there,
>
> I just installed the 4 OEM bushings on the rear subframe, and the job was
> even easier than last week's (front subframe).
> Why?
> Because I followed one listers suggestions: put the rubber bushings in the
> freezer for an hour. Installation was nearly effortless... but I can't say
> if it's more the freezer or because I am now a semi-pro of bushings
> installation (I have done the 16 on my car...)!
> Nonetheless, the harder the rubber, the easier it will slip in place, with
> less deformation of the "bulge".
>
>
> However, I have some questions regarding the bolts and their torquing.
>
> Since all the subframes bolts must be replaced (per Bentley), and my
> dealer doesn't stock them, I went to my FLAPS and bought some M10X85
> bolts.
>
> Now, can somebody tell me if these bolts (grade 8.8) are correct for this
> application ?
> What is the difference with the 8.9 grade we more usually see ?
> Are the OEM bolts (N 905 569 02) special high strenght bolts ?
>
> For the torquing:
> Bentley says torque to 25 ft-lbs and then add a quarter turn more. I did
> just that.
> But even after that, I still feel that the bolts are "under torqued"... It
> was real easy to add that quarter turn. More, there is no provision for
> securing the bolts in place (no Loctite, no lock washers, nothing...).
>
> Am I paranoid ? Should I leave this all alone and don't worry about it
> anymore?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Louis-Alain
> 1983 Quattro, gliding over bumps now...
>
>
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