Repairing a rusted oil pan
radek at istar.ca
radek at istar.ca
Wed Sep 8 19:50:10 EDT 2004
Thanks for your encouragement guys. I'll try the "plug the hole - spread epoxy" method
(thanks Ado).
If it doesn't work, it's subframe removal time. BTW, the dealer quoted Can. $101 for the
pan, looks
reasonable.
Cheers.
Radek
88 90Q
91 V8Q 5-sp.
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2004 22:48:56 -0400
> From: Richard Beels <beels at technologist.com>
> Subject: Re: Repairing a rusted oil pan
> To: quattro at audifans.com
> Message-ID: <6.1.2.0.0.20040907224844.02eccac8 at 127.0.0.1>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
> Replace the pan. It's not really that difficult. I did it a month or so
> ago. Luckily, I have a spare engine sitting in the corner so I just
> swapped pans.
>
> From memory:
> Get a new oil pan and gasket.
> Get new subframe bolts (These are "always replace" items).
> Remove the under-engine cover
> Drain the oil - save if it's new if you want. I had just changed the oil 2
> weeks before and since it was Mobil 1....
> Undo the 4 bolts holding the subframe and pull it out down of the way. It
> will just hang there.
> Grab every 3/8" socket extension you own and a 3/8" u-joint adapter because
> there are lots of bolts and some are at weird angles and depths.
> The only tricky bit here is the alternator bracket support at the front. I
> found it easier to just pop off the bumper cover (it's just 2 bolts, pop it
> off the side clips and then disconnect the fog lights) and remove the
> alternator. YMMV. There are something like 18 bolts. There are 2 or 3
> (or 4?) on the rear flange alone.
> Before you get the last bolt off you will want to be careful since there
> will still be oil in the bottom of the pan.
> I re-used my gasket since I didn't have a spare one and it was 10pm and I
> needed to drive 200 miles the next morning for work. I'd recc. a new
> gasket but if you're careful, you can remove the pan without damaging the
> gasket. I did use some Permatex Hylomar (sp?) gasket dressing on both
> sides of the gasket when I put the new(er) pan on. Miracle in a tube, I
> call it.
> While you have the pan off, put a cloth down under the block since oil will
> drip. In fact, you will be amazed at how much oil drips out of the block
> and wonder - shouldn't this oil have dripped down before? and: How long
> does it take for all the oil to drip down to the pan?
> Scrape the block really well to get all the gasket material off and wipe it
> down. Prep the pan and gasket. Re-wipe the block. Pop the pan on there
> and start finger-threading the bolts.
> The manual doesn't mention a pattern to the bolts but I did them in the
> manner of tightening a head down to block. Snugged them up and then
> torqued to spec.
> When you do the subframe, there is a specific-order to the bolts: rear
> left, rear right, front left then front right. And it's best to snug them
> while the car is in the air and then do the final torque when it's on the
> ground.
>
> One thing to look out for that I ran into was that the replacement pan
> touched the plastic oil baffle for the oil pump pickup. What I ended up
> doing was clipping a little bit off and trial fitting the pan and checking
> for touching. I did this without the gasket in place knowing that if it
> didn't touch without a gasket, its additional clearance would guarantee no
> touching. I ended up trimming maybe 3/16" off one side of the baffle.
>
> And don't forget to put oil back in the engine when you're done.
>
>
>
> At 09/06/2004 at 22:55, Shakespearean monkeys danced on Radek's keyboard
> and said:
> >Hello fellow listers.
> >
> >16 years of Canadian salt have taken their toll and here I am with a rusted
> >through oil pan on the 90Q. It's only a pinhole for now. Would anyone have
> >experience patching rusty, oily metal? I don't think epoxy will stick. Any
> >new technologies out there? I really don't feel like replacing the pan now
> >since I think it means removing the subframe.
> >TIA.
> >
> >Radek
> >1988 90Q
> >1991 V8Q 5-sp.
>
>
> Cheers!
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