?? Audi Dealership in Phoenix ??

[Mike Arman]

>: "Cat     ^. .^   ~" <iceisit at earthlink.net>
>Subject: ?? Audi Dealership in Phoenix ??
>
>The person I got a quote from in Flagstaff has not returned my calls all day.
>
>He quoted me $800 for the complete timing belt situation.
>
>I paid him $100 yesterday to tell me what was wrong with my car.
>
>So I am considering the dealership in Phoenix being he is quoting me so high.
>
>What do you all think?
>
>Cheers,  Cat


I think I'd run away - immediately.


First he *charges* you $100 to tell you he's going to charge you another 
$800 . . . and once he has YOUR car in HIS clutches, then what?

I don't think you want the stealership, either . . .

Start calling around, see if you can find a decent independent VW shop with 
a reasonably sharp mechanic. This job is hardly rocket science, these 
engines have been around since the early eighties, so the chances are 
pretty good that someone, somewhere has actually seen one before . . .

The only special tool required is the crank lock, and even if you had to 
BUY one for them and GIVE it to them, you'll still come out way ahead of 
either of these other two options. You can buy the belt and water pump at 
Autozone or Pep Boys or most other similar places, and you'll get a 
lifetime warranty on them - you can get the idler pulley at any number of 
the suppliers you see mentioned here, so you might as well get all the 
parts at one time by mail order.

This is a SIMPLE job - get a copy of the Haynes Manual ($15) and it 
describes the procedure in adequate depth so that any mechanic worthy of 
the grease under his fingernails can do this as long as he bothers to READ 
the instructions.

A little over $100 for the parts, no more than three hours tops for the 
work, and you might even be able to find someone on this list who will rent 
or even lend you the crank lock tool.

Four things to watch -

1) clean the block surface where the water pump fits - if it is dirty, the 
pump will leak.

2) make sure the different length bolts go back into the correct holes - 
oil leaks otherwise.

3) removing and replacing the idler pulley by pushing or pulling on it with 
the mounting bolt won't work - it breaks off the bolt inside and provokes 
foul language from the mechanic, who will never try *that* particular 
shortcut again.

4) later engines use a different timing belt and water pump pulley - parts 
are somewhat but not greatly more expensive - if you tell us the year and 
serial number, someone on the list will be able to look it up for you and 
tell you which belt.pulley set you need.



Best Regards,

Mike Arman
86 5KS, 86 5KTQ, tons of parts, all down with Cody Forbes now in Delray
90 V8Q - it isn't just a car, it's an ADVENTURE!



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