Saw the 4kq, now is it worth it?

[Jan Pinkowish]

<<original message>>

Message: 11
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 18:56:09 -0400
From: Brendan Walsh <audicted42 at gmail.com>
Subject: Saw the 4kq, now is it worth it?

So i went to see the 4k this morning, here's what i found
the bad:
Diff locks intermittent, front not at all, the rear worked 1 in five
times. (what a suprise huh?)
Tach was intermitent(i' would assume replcing the whole custer is
proably in order) tapping the top of cluster got it going again.
A-arm bushings need to be replaced, oddly the rest seemed to be ok.
Body had some minor chips/surface rust i missed on the first
inspection.Overall insignifigant
Idiot light for overtemp was flickering only when i was on the
throttle, assuming it's the sensor on it's way out.

the good
startes on first try, without  hesitation.
Pulled like a mother all the way to redline
no ticking clattering or other noises. 
clutch is solid
All hoses wiring and belts looked like new, no dry rot or cracking
all the paint was very shiny, excepting the couple chips.
interior was immaculate. 
all door handles and power stuff was functional.
no leaks in the engine bay. 
no evidence of water in trunk or interior. 


he's asking $2k Im thinking to offer him 1500, considering the unknown
mileage and difflock issues.
TIA
Brendan

<><><><>
Brendan,
Before handing over your $$, and considering the unknown engine mileage, I would recommend the following:
--perform a compression and/or leakdown test
With a cold engine:
--check the plugs
--check the oil level
--pull the top timing belt cover and check the timing belt for cracks, etc.

Intermittant diff locks mean either the short sections of hose at the actuators is rotten(cheap fix) or the actuators  are cracked($25-30/ea from Chris Semple at Force5.com).  About 1-1 1/2 hrs/ea to fix.

Body surface rust should be fixed.  The 4kq body is not galvanized.

Other things to check:
--get the car hot and turn the heater valve to full on.  Smell for antifreeze and check under the dash for evidence of drips.
--get under the car and check the center exhaust and rear muffler especially wher the pipes enter/exit the silencers.  If they're not rock solid, you will replace them in a year or so.  That's $$.
--check the rear diff mounts($18/ea or so).  No cracks allowed.  Use a crow bar to move things around.
--also, check the trans($18/ea or so) and engine($40-50ea) mounts.  this is an easy check/replace for the driver side.  Much tougher for the pass side.
--make sure the subframe bushings show no sign of cracking rubber.  SF bushings are dealer only and are about $160 for the front and $120 for the rear.
--check the undersides of the doors for any sign of rust, especially the rear doors.  If rust is significant, it's a pain to fix, or you must R/R the door.
--pull all your wheels, measure rotor thickness, and check pads/rubber brake lines.
--make sure your rear window defroster works and the mirror heaters work(spray light h2o mist on them).
--check the condition of the fuel pump tray and fuel lines under the car.  You can spend some money or time in here if thing are ugly.
--does A/C blow cold?

You didn't mention service records:
--timing belt/water pump($80 or so in parts)?
--fuel pump ever replaced(new is $125-175)?
--when was o2 sensor($30-40)/cat(about $125) replaced?
--original strut inserts or Boge TG or better replaced?
--age of battery($75)

For $2k, wheels should be excellent and rubber should be good quality with 7-8/32" treat min.  All exterior lights, corner lenses, turn signals, dummy lenses should be near perfect.

That's it for now.

HTH

Jan Pinkowish
'85 4ksq
Bristol, CT