4kq, slipping clutch :(

[E. Roy Wendell IV]

On Dec 6, 2005, at 1:16 PM, Robert M wrote:

>
>  Thanks for the detailed reply, Roy.  Pretty obvious that I'll be 
> doing a clutch job, so I have some part related questions as well.
>
> My current parts list is as follows:
> 1.  Slave and master
> 2.  Connecting hose
> 3.  Clutch kit (disc, pp, TO bearing)
> 4.  Tranny mounts x2
> 5.  Pilot bearing
> 6.  Throwout bearing guide sleeve
> 7.  Rear main seal
> 8.  Driveshaft seals x2
>
> Questions:
>
> A)  Have I forgotten anything?! (either for the clutch job or because 
> it's easier to do with the transmission out)
>
> B1)  Do I really need to replace the throwout bearing guide sleeve?
> B2)  There seems to be two different ones available, call them Cheap 
> ($3) and NotSoCheap ($15).  What gives?
>
> C) There seems to be two different pilot bearings available, again 
> cheap and not so cheap.  Any help?  In this case they appear to be 
> different...
>
> D)  Is there a transmission input shaft seal I should swap?  Couldn't 
> find one in the FA but the FA and I don't always get along...
>
> E)  Any intel on the least painful place to get part #2?
>
> F)  I assume the downpipe has to come off (sweet).  Is that gasket 
> reusable?
>
> TIA,
> Robert
> '87 4kq
>

snip

Because I'm a poor college student I'd personally take the tranny 
mounts and clutch hose off the list. The mounts do get old but the only 
one I've seen that was really destroyed is the left side one on cars 
with leaking pentosin hydraulic systems. The hydraulic oil eats up the 
rubber. The clutch hose isn't near the exhaust manifold and it isn't 
under as much pressure as the brake hoses are. The bearing guide sleeve 
is plastic as I recall but its not subject to UV degradation so I guess 
it would be a matter of how worn it is so it's a maybe. Rear main seal 
only if leaking badly. They all leak a little bit and with all things 
automotive, maintenance takes a toll of it's own. Sometimes you can 
install a new seal and end up with a bigger leak. I'd put the 
transmission input seal in the same category and the pilot bearing as 
well. Really, this is personal preference. If you want to change 
everything than have at it.

I'm not sure what you mean by driveshaft seals? The cv joints on both 
the drive axles and the drive shaft bolt onto flanges. There is a 
gasket that goes on the interface between the cv joint and flange that 
you will most likely need to replace. Don't forget to have some bags 
handy to cover up the open end of the cv joints as soon as you unbolt 
them so that dirt can't get in. Try and clean up the area where the 
joints unbolt from the flanges before you start disassembly for the 
same reason. Have some cv joint grease handy to replace what will be 
left behind in the drive flanges.

I'm also not sure what you mean by downpipe as that's a term usually 
applied to turbo cars and you are NA as far as I know but then again 
I'm not familiar with the breakdown of the 4kq exhaust. The general 
rule with exhaust systems though is that they rarely use gaskets 
because they don't hold up well under the heat. It's usually a metal to 
metal joint of some kind or there is a metal or metal/carbon donut. The 
ones on the type 44 tq are a cast iron donut and they are reusable.

As for where to get parts, well that's a real problem now. In general I 
like dealing with places that know and love Audis. They're making money 
off you, the least they can do is send you the right parts. I would 
have gladly recommended a place that was good and cheap but they went 
away for some unknown reason. So the second best choice is good and 
somewhat cheap which is Blaufergnugen Inc at www.blauparts.com.

Roy Wendell
Morgantown WV, USA
turbo quattro type 44 times 3