Water in oil/brown smoke

[Huw Powell]

> Thanks for your reply Huw,

You're welcome - I am reposting this up to the quattro list, try to keep 
the conversation there - you'll get more/better answers, and corrections 
if I say anything terribly wrong.

> You wrote:
> 
> "Aren't you supposed to undo the manifold from the
> downpipe (5 nuts, hard to get to...)?  Then the DP
> stays on the car and the EM comes off with the head."
> 
> 
> Yes, but I figured that it would be easier to detach
> the EM from the cylinder head than the EM from the
> downpipe. 
> 
> However, I had to maneuver the CH quiet a bit in
> different angles, and at times, hiting the gasket in
> different places; something I can't afford to do when
> puting it back together, so I figured. It didn't
> matter because the CH was going to the machine shop,
> and well the head gasket was headed for the garbage.

OK, I can see that... "normally," removing the EM from the head is 
really a pain "in situ".

> I guess, this time I WILL have to detach the EM from
> the downpipe so I can attatch the EM to the CH without
> pulling any weird contortions.
> 
> Those 5 nuts are a bitch to undo, aren't they? Any
> suggestions besides arming myself with patience?

I think they are bolts.  Start soaking them early with penetrant.  Since 
the head and IM are out of the way, or you might even have the EM/DP off 
the car, you can also wirebrush the bolt threads so they don't fight you 
as much.  Heat them up as much as you can let them cool.  (Most of this 
is typical rusty fastener advice)  Then put everything in a vise and get 
some good leverage (pipe on breaker bar, 1/2" six point impact socket) 
and give it a try.

use new bolts when reassembling.

> I will then attach the EM to the CH, still outside the
> engine bay, and on bolt CH to block.
> 
> 
> And then the fun part; attaching the EM to the
> downpipe!!! ARGGGG
> 
> Am I going the right or should I said, the better
> route?

Yes, that's the way to do it.  I think you can even attach the DP to the 
EM off the car and sneak it in - though it's a tight squeeze past the 
subframe, so lowering that and letting it hang on the suspension might 
be a good idea.

> Also, any tips on removing the pilot bearing.
> 
> Last and first time I did one of these, it was more on
> the role of assistant when Cody F, did a whole clutch
> kit replacement on a 5KTQ. He removed that pilot
> bearing so fast and without any effort
> that I really did not noticed when he did it. All I
> recall is asking him if he had R&R the pilot bearing
> and him responding I just did it.

Yes, I think it is either very easy or a big pain.  The last one I 
remember took an hour or three and a lot of patience with picks, 
chisels, and dremels.  Using the "proper" tool would probably be very 
nice, or at least a tool that helps, like a cotter pin puller.

Good luck!

-- 
Huw Powell

http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi

http://www.humanthoughts.org/