Water in oil/brown smoke

Greg Smith lifeisabirdie at yahoo.com
Tue Dec 20 22:37:18 EST 2005


The pilot bearing tool is indeed a set of three
outward facing hooks like a gear puller.  They are J
shaped.  There is a tapered cone on the shaft that
slides against the end of the J hooks and forces them
outward; holding it in postion inside the pilot
bearing.  At the end of the shaft is a 1 or 2 lb
weight on a slide hammer setup.  A few quick smacks
outward and the bearing generally releases intact from
the rear of the crank

Greg Galinsky
G & G Service

--- Huw Powell <audi at humanspeakers.com> wrote:

> 
> >>> Also, any tips on removing the pilot bearing.
> >>
> >> I think it is either very easy or a big pain. 
> The last one I  
> >> remember took an hour or three and a lot of
> patience with picks,  
> >> chisels, and dremels.  Using the "proper" tool
> would probably be  very 
> >> nice, or at least a tool that helps, like a
> cotter pin puller.
> > 
> > 
> > Sometimes, you can remove the pilot bearing by
> filling the area  behind 
> > the bearing, and almost to the face of the bearing
> with HEAVY  grease, 
> > and using a dowel the same size as the ID of the
> bearing to  force the 
> > grease in. Use a big hammer on the dowel. Also, it
> helps to  stuff a 
> > chunk of heavy duty paper towel in on top of the
> grease as a  sort of 
> > makeshift seal.
> 
> This idea has such shade-tree elegance, and yet I
> don't think I have 
> ever heard of someone saying it actually *worked*
> for them.
> 
> > Failing that, the deal with the dremel tool sucks,
> but you certainly  
> > can get them out that way. A word of caution
> though, the metal that  the 
> > pilot bearing is made of is VERY hard, and forms
> very sharp  shards when 
> > ground up. Use eye protection, and long gloves, or
> you  will be picking 
> > little chunks of metal out of your fingers for
> weeks.  Ask me how I know 
> > this...
> 
> Yup, the nasty tools came last as the bearing slowly
> disintegrated.
> 
> Ideally, you get a few hooks of some sort behind it
> (a few, so you are 
> pulling evenly) and give them a steady tug or sharp
> rap or two and pull 
> it out straight and intact.  I'm assuming that the
> "tool" for the job 
> allows you to do this.
> 
> In fact, I am imagining how it would be put together
> right now... three 
> hardened little hooks mounted with pivots to a
> central core piece, that 
> is threaded down its center.  When a bolt is run
> through to push against 
> the inside end of the crank, it also prevents the
> hooks from letting go. 
>   Actually, duh, it is the bolt that "activates" the
> hooks by spreading 
> them out.  Patent pending, haha.
> 
> -- 
> Huw Powell
> 
> http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi
> 
> http://www.humanthoughts.org/
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