200tq low voltage
David Kavanagh
audiguy at gmail.com
Tue Feb 15 09:22:07 EST 2005
While what Mike says could be an issue (and more likely as these cars
age), The fact is that the voltage guage on the CC head unit isn't
accurate, espcially with the circulating fan on. Just measure off the
battery posts. That will tell you a lot actually. If the splice that
Mike talks about is a problem, you won't see the 13.8 at the battery
(as you should when things are running right).
David
On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 05:42:27 -0800 (PST), Mike LaRosa
<mrmotoguzzi00 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> allrighty, go thru this procedure guys....
>
> If it works and you come up to Southern, NH you owe me
> a beer :)
>
>
> --- Denis <sparkplugvw at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > My girlfriend 's 200T does the same thing :-(.
> >
> > When i run the car the voltage reading drop to 11 V
> > then in 1/100 sec later
> > it goes back to 12.5... then sometime 13.5....
> >
> > Sometime before i stop (engine) the car the reading
> > was 11V. After couple
> > minutes i start it again and the reading is 13.5.
> > !!! this morning was 14V.
> >
> > Sometime i stop the engine 10 minutes. When i m back
> > to the car and try to
> > start grrrrrrrr the battery is down. Sometime it
> > goes very well.
> >
> > I remember my old Scirocco did exactly the same
> > trouble. It was the
> > solenoide on the starter.
> >
> > So i ll check it. Probably change the starter at the
> > same time.
> >
> > Denis
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Kurt Deschler" <desch at alum.wpi.edu>
> > To: <quattro at audifans.com>
> > Sent: Monday, February 14, 2005 3:44 PM
> > Subject: 200tq low voltage
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Subject is an 89 200tq. Guage on dash displays
> > 11-12V with the heater
> > > on high and the headlights on. Appro 14V with all
> > accessories off. The
> > > (aftermarket) radio seems to have some alternator
> > whine. I have
> > > done the following already:
> > >
> > > Replaced alternator and tightened belt
> > > Clean batter cable connections and grounds at
> > battery, starter, and
> > > alternator
> > > Cleaned fuse box relay connections.
> > > Removed spade near jumper post on connector on
> > blue stator wire
> > > Relayed headlights (helped some)
> > > Checked grounds on intake, valve cover, and above
> > left side kick panel
> > >
> > > The car does not appear to have the infamous
> > battery cable splice. Is that
> > > 5ks only? I found no ground connection above the
> > right side kick panel.
> > > Another oddity is that the positive battery
> > terminal seems to run fairly
> > > hot even after cleaning its connection. I cannot
> > determine where the
> > > power feeds to the fuse box originate. Any other
> > BTDTs would be helpful.
> > >
> > > Another problem this car has is that the rear
> > defroster does not work. I
> > > replaced the switch (which was burned inside) and
> > that made the heated
> > > mirrors work, but stil no rear defroster.
> > >
> > > TIA.
> > >
> > >
> > > Kurt
> > > 87 5kcstq
> > > 89 200tq
> > > 00 s4
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > quattro mailing list
> > > quattro at audifans.com
> > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > quattro mailing list
> > quattro at audifans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro
> >
>
> To: v8 at audifans.com
> X-Mailer: dtmail 1.3.0 @(#)CDE Version 1.4 SunOS 5.8 sun4u sparc
> Mime-Version: 1.0
> Content-Type: TEXT/plain; charset=us-ascii
> Content-MD5: fZ5DvRA2y3ZvXQn4nqt9JQ==
> Content-Length: 10818
> Status: O
> X-Status: $$$$
> X-UID: 0000000824
>
> Here is a little thing I wrote up a few years
> ago for a nasty issue on a 89 100 Avant....
>
> Hope it helps!!!
>
> ======================================================================
>
> "Gory Details"
>
> for
>
> "Troubleshooting and Correcting the dreaded
> 12.5 at the Battery - 13.7 at the Alternator"
>
> Some Potential Symptoms:
>
> A) Car starts and runs fine, The dash gage measures a little low, but
> there aren't any numbers on the voltage gage, so you don't really
> notice it's been slowly sitting more and more to the left.....
>
> B) Every time you run the A/C for an extended time the car won't turn
> over the next time you stop and try to start it again.......
>
> C) Battery dies for no apparent reason, you jump start it and leave all
> electricals off, because you wan't the battery to charge back up...
> you go to your friendly mechanic... and what does he/she do ? pops the
> hood (Not the back seat) and measures the voltage at the jump start post
> (Which is a direct connect to the alternator) and low and behold the
> output is 13.7..... they announce looks ok to me, maybe you need a new
> battery ? ) $50.- to $100.- bucks (New Battery) and a week later, it
> does it again!!! Doooooohhhhhhhhh!!!!
>
> Ok, The reason the A/C kills the battery in this instance is when you
> turn on the A/C it turns the electric radiator fan onto hurricane mode
> and it sucks huge amounts of juice from the battery. As it is when
> the electrical system is working properly it barely keeps up to the
> current draw. With the battery barely getting any charge from the alternator
> the battery dies fairly quickly.
>
> Next Ok, Why does the jump start post measure 13.7 and the battery 12.5 ?
> because the wiring harness for the charging system goes like so:
>
> Alternator LUG--Cable-- Jump start Post
> |
> |
> C
> a
> b
> l
> e
> |
> |
> Firewall
> |
> |
> *** Pressed Clamp (Your problem area)
> |
> |
> |------- link to dash cluster gage
> |
> |
> Battery
>
> Problem:
>
> The "Pressed Clamp" is a metal tube about 3-4" long in which the battery
> cable is inserted into one end and the alternator cable inserted into
> the other. Then's it's pressed together to form a connection.
>
> Inside the clamp it get's corroded with the green goo just like your
> battery post's used to when you owned cars where the battery was under
> the hood :-)
>
> Vehicles that can be affected: 5000/100/200 (likely the V8 as well...)
>
> Tools Needed:
>
> Multimeter w/point attachment (Digital preferred)
> Wrench to disconnect battery
> Seriously heavy duty wire cutters to cut battery cable
> Wire Brush
> (4) Chrome hose clamps - (3/8" wide) x 1.5dia" or so
> (with hex head preffered)
> Vise Grips
> Nut Driver w/socket that fits above hose clamps
> Grease or Lithium grease in a spray can will do
> 4" x 4" piece of 1/16" thick rubber - I used old motorcycle tube
> A Printout of these instructions when you start(Seriously)
> (You'll be taking notes.....)
>
> Sharp Carpenters Knife or New Razor Blades.....something good
> enough to cut the plastic of the battery cable.
> Plastic Electrical tape
> Cold Beer - (Optional)
>
> Everything else but the Beer is a must, I would read the procedure
> to get an understanding of what's involved and why you want all this
> stuff before you start.
>
> This way, If you don't have some of the tools, you may be able to
> come up with some suitable substitutes in advance.
>
> Troubleshooting:
>
> Background.... I've been through this on my wife's 89 100 Avant 125k miles,
> after 2 voltage regulators(1 cheapy $25.-, and a $50.- Bosch), 1 Alternator
> belt, and 2 alternators... (Don't get one from PEP Boy's, mine lasted
> 1 day then died.) and a tremendous amount of cursing.... I decided to
> devote a day to getting to the bottom of this debacle myself.
>
> _____________________ These spots are for you to write down
> your findings as we explore the problem.
>
> Preliminaries:
>
> - Take out the back seat.
>
> - Open the hood.
>
> - Front of car on ramps helps, but is not required. Remember to block
> tires and use emergency brake, unless of course you have bad emergency
> brake levers on your rear calipers, then DON'T grab the emergency brake,
> just block the tires :-)
>
> 1) Measure battery with the car OFF ______________
> Your Target is (12.8 +/- .1)
>
> -If it's below target, it's not being charged sufficiently or
> the battery is on the way out. How far along is the battery
> in it's projected life span ?
>
> (Believe it or not I had Sears check the battery with a Bear machine
> of some sort that put a load on it, looked ok, then they charged it
> and gave me a loaner battery for a few day's... whilst mine sat around
> for a few day's to see if it discharged. It didn't, battery was ok)
>
> Keep reading...
>
> 2) Measure at Jump start post with car OFF ____________________.
> Your Target (12.8 +/- .2)
>
> -If battery measures 12.8 and jump start post is at 12.5 or
> less your losing voltage from a bad connection in the
> cable somewhere.... Keep Reading...
>
> START YOUR ENGINES!!!!, Imagine checkered flag waving... sorry, getting
> off track...
>
> 3) Grab the multimeter with a pin point end. Measure voltage at the
> jump start post with car RUNNING ___________________.
> Your Target (13.7 +/- .2)
>
> -If voltage fluctuates wildly, as in more than .5 volts, possible
> regulator. $25.- (Cheap..) to $50.- (Bosch)
>
> -If voltage less than 13.7, I'd bring it somewhere reputable and have
> the alternator tested. It should put out an easy 13.7, could be as
> easy as new brushes.
>
> -KEEP READING, you may have more problems.... let's get 'em all
> checked out while where here.
>
> 4) Measure at Battery with car RUNNING ______________.
> Your Target (13.7 +/- .2)
>
> -If 3) meets target, but you fail here with less than 13.5,
> keep reading.....
>
> SHUT THE CAR OFF.
>
> How'd you do ? you probably failed somewhere or you wouldn't be
> doing this on a sat/sun instead of watching the ball game with
> a frosty beer in hand... :-)
>
> OK, If you failed and got the dreaded 13.7 Alt - 12.5 Bat, again...
> Keep Reading.....
>
> The Fun Part...
>
> Follow the Positive cable from the alternator, it travels across
> the top of the passenger side frame rail into the firewall at the
> passenger side foot well.
>
> Pull up the carpet on the passenger foot well.
>
> On the top of the foot well on the right side, you'll see the
> cable coming through.
>
> Start up the car and poke that positive side pointy end on the
> Multimeter through the cable to check the positive voltage. Check it
> before and after the "Pressed Clamp". The "Pressed Clamp" Looks like
> a 3 - 4" long by maybe .5" thick shrink wrap section on the cable.
>
> On the wife's car it measured 13.7 on the alternator side and 12.5
> on the battery side.....
>
> If this is what you get, go grab a frosty out of the fridge, you've
> just figured out the problem :-)
>
> =====================================================================
>
> Whilst drinking said Beer, you get to decide do I go out and buy a
> new cable from Audi for $430.- bucks or do we fix this puppy
> right know with all the Tools/Supplies outlined above ?
>
> I vote we get it over with and continue.
>
> - First things first, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> - Back to the passenger footwell... pull on the cable and see if
> there is any slack.
>
> - Your gonna need about 3-4 inches.
>
> - If NOT, there is a clamp near the alternator where the cable is
> bolted in. Unbolt it from there and you'll get the slack.
>
> Back in the car at the passenger foot well....
>
> - Once you have the slack, get the Big wire cutters and cut out the
> Dreaded "Pressed Clamp". Making sure to cut as close to the clamp
> as you can.
>
> - Strip approx 2" of insulation from both sides.
>
> - Put the 2 Chrome clamps on each cable loosely.
>
> - Put the 2 cables side by side so that the bare ends both touch
> each other's plastic sheathing. I'd try to make an ASCII drawing
> but the picture would be more confusing than helpful......
>
> Feel free to give me a buzz and I'll fax a drawing.....
>
> 978-442-1250 Work Number.....
>
> - Here is where we'll need the Nut Driver and the Vise Grips, Line up the
> Chrome clamps on the exposed cable a 1/4 inch or so from the ends.
> So that there is a 1/4 inch of cable showing between the clamp and
> the plastic sheathing. Hopefully this makes sense...
>
> - Use the Vise Grip to hold the clamp in place, this will also give you
> some leverage when your tightening it with the Nut Driver.
>
> - When it's tight. Put the Rubber section over the area and loosely clamp
> it on.
>
> Here's where we get to start the car up and re-measure with the
> multimeter :-) Just make sure the cable is not exposed anywhere!!!
>
> Don't forget to hook up the battery.....
>
> I'm going to assume success......
>
> - Ok, NOW DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!
>
> - Take the rubber off the cable.
>
> - I put a piece of cardboard behind the working area of the cable and
> sprayed it heavily with Lithium Grease. It's all I had at the time.
>
> - I think a good heavy hand applied grease might work better here, glop
> it on thick. This will hopefully slow down the corrosion enough that
> next time it happens, you won't own the car :-)
>
> Where in the home stretch......
>
> - Put the rubber section back over the cable and make sure it's big
> enough to cover the whole thing and then some. Secure it with the
> other 2 cable clamps.
>
> - Wrap nice and tight and completely with Plastic Electrical tape, This
> will help keep out any moisture as well as keep it all in a nice bundle :-)
>
> RECONNECT BATTERY AND TRY IT AGAIN.
>
> - Wouldn't want to put everything back together and find we missed
> something.
>
> - Everything working ok ? Yes, Excellent, put it all back together,
> sit back have a couple more beers!!!
>
> Hopefully my anguish over this will help somebody else save some time, money
> and frustration. I know other people on the list over the years have
> saved me lot's of both :-)
>
> _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa
> _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - AMER SCC
> _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1 Network Drive
> _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Burlington, MA 01803
> _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/
> E N T E R P R I S E Phone: 781/442-1250
> S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-1418
> SCC PHone: 781-442-1945
> Email: ml75198 at east.sun.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> quattro mailing list
> quattro at audifans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro
>
>
>
--
'00 A6 biturbo 6-speed - FOR SALE! (see ad @ audifans.com)
'01 allroad 6-speed
More information about the quattro
mailing list