Clutch issues

[Kneale Brownson]

It would be better, would it not, to end the slow pushing of the brake
pedal BEFORE reaching the floor to avoid having the seals in the brake
master cylinder go beyond their normal range of travel and get torn up by
derbris accumulated there?

At 05:52 PM 1/13/2005 -0500, cody at 500tq.com wrote:
>Quoting David <duandcc_forums at cox.net>:
> What the proceedure? Power vacuum bleeder
>> needed or just open it up and let it run? Or is a reverse bleeder needed?
>> Ugh, this clutch hydrolic problem has got me considering a newer car...
>>
>
>I found this in the archives about 2 years ago, and I'm adding my version in
>too. Get yourself a length of hose that fits snugly on the nipple on the
>bleeder screw. Run the hose from the left front brake caliper to the clutch
>slave cylinder, use a zip tie on each end to clamp it on a little bit. Have a
>friend in the car. Open the clutch slave bleed screw and leave it open, take
>the cap off of the fluid resovour, and make sure the clutch pedal is all the
>way up. Open the bleed screw on the brake caliper and have your friend
*slowly*
>push the brake pedal to the floor, then close the brake bleeder and let the
>brake pedal return. Open the brake bleed, *slowly* push the brake pedal down,
>close bleeder, return pedal. Repeat about 3 times. Close the clutch slave
>bleeder and check the pedal. Might take a few tries, but its easy peasy and
>works every time for me. You can even do it without a jack if you can
reach the
>slave cylinder. Just MAKE SURE THE BRAKE GETS PUSHED SLOWLY otherwise it will
>pop the hose off and spew fluid everywhere, plus add some air to the mix.