Engine Paint q

[n-engelbert at terrans.net]

> I'd go black.  Red, yellow, etc look boy-racer-ish and rather bad
> within a few years unless they're kept completely clean and the paint
> was applied very well.
>
> POR-15 makes what they call Hardnose paint; it is a 2-part,
> isocyanate paint that is extremely tough.  You MUST prep the metal;
> loose/heavy rust should be mechanically removed, then the whole
> surface should be sprayed with their "Metal Ready", which eats the
> rust and then leaves a light galvanized coating.  Then, you can apply
> or spray the paint. It has its own thinner, but I think you can thin
> it with Xylene.

Ordered an orange engine paint kit from a POR15 distributor yesterday. 
Hopefully I'll like it, because it was a relatively tough decision between
that and black.  But oil and coolant, and other leaks will show up better
against the red/orange than the black.

>
> As an isocyanate, the vapors are quite bad for you to breathe.
> Supplied-air hood/respirator is recommended/required for spraying,
> with some sort of cartridge respirator (not sure what kind) for
> painting and LOTS of ventilation.  Skin exposure should be kept to an
> absolute minimum(ie long sleeve/pants).  It will take about 2 days to
> fully cure, depending on temperature and humidity.  In short, it's
> probably best to have someone else put the stuff on if you are
> painting something sizeable; any shop which does classic cars or
> restorations should be familiar with POR-15 products etc...and
> painting a bare block should be a walk in the park.

Will be done outside by my dad, who's done quite a bit of painting over
the years:  lots of houses, a few cars, etc.  He'll be using a respirator.

>
> The only other real choice in terms of durability is powdercoating.
> Skip the 'engine paint' sold in stores; I used the 'Duplicolor' stuff
> one lister suggested on my calipers (black, thank you much), and it
> lasted all of about 4 months before they were completely, totally
> covered in rust- and that was WITH two coats primer and flat-black
> topcoat.  Now I use POR-15's high-temp paint (not 2-part, just a
> variant of their regular stuff).  I honestly haven't looked to see
> how well it has held up...maybe I'll take a peek tomorrow.
>
> By the way, if your block was bead-blasted or sandblasted, you need
> to have it professionally cleaned inside and out, and change the oil
> almost immediately; the glass bits are supposedly especially
> problematic.
>

Rust has been removed in the cleaning tank by the machinist, no rust to
speak of at this point, just bare metal, with a thin oil coating to be
removed when I pick it up.  I don't think he ever bead blasted it.  I'll
use the "Metal Ready" for the galvanization aspect and let things dry
thoroughly between coats.

This is beginning to look like an entire weekend project, which is fine,
because I have a parts car to strip and get rid of.  Grandma wants that
half of her garage back.

> HTH!
> Brett

Thanks!
Nate

> --
> "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary
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> http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/
>
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