steering rack update

[Keith Lawyer]

For those who care, the new steering rack is installed and bolted in place ('90 200).  Feeding it back in was easier than getting it out, I thought.  

80% of this entire job requires a helper, I'd go insane trying to do it alone (although I can see where it would be possible, just take longer).  Fortunately my gf is mechanically inclined.

The hardest part of removal, IMO, was getting the passenger side of the rack around the wires that run in front of it right there.  I'm sure those wires got stretched a bit, but there's just no other way to get the rack out.  Upon reinstall we got smart and threw a strap around them thru the pass tie rod hole, I then pulled them that way while the gf slid the rack into it's bracket.

Oh, and we simply removed the pass side tie rod.  I know it's not required but it took longer to walk to the tool box to get the impact and air hammer than it did to zip the nut off and knock the tie rod out.  I think the additional 2 minutes spent here saved 15 minutes of removal time.  We brought the rack out w the pinion pointing up despite recommendations of the opposite.  Whatever works LOL

I was able to simply disconn the flange tube under the dash at what I would call the rag joint (the 4 way rubber joint).  Remove the two nuts here and the plate with threaded studs drops away making for easy removal/reinstall.  So I'm still baffled by the talk of needing to get into the column, resetting the steering wheel gap at 3mm, or breaking the turn signal switch while doing so (mentioned in the KB write-up).  Perhaps '88 and earlier was different from '89-91?  In any case I'm glad I didn't have to touch the steering wheel aside from having my helper hold it or rotate it to aid in access to the fasteners.

Once again my Gearwrenches (stubbies and regular length) were a real savior at several points throughout the project, not sure how I ever got by without them now that I have them.  And the project has highlighted the need for some nice, fine-tooth ratchets as well (SK is probably in my future).  All my current ratchets are coarse and rough.  Then again I'm just a tool junkie.........

All that's left to do is weight the car and tighten the tie rod bolts at the rack itself (seems it'll be easier with the hydraulic reservoir still removed), then install the reservoir (held up last nite 'cause I need a replacement return line from the reservoir to bomb) and bleed the system.  With any luck, there won't be any leaks.

Speaking of leaks, the rebuilt rack from Jorgen came with 4 new o-rings twist-tied to it.  Guess I didn't need to order new o-rings from Blau after all........

I'm supposed to refill the system w ATF, right?  JUST KIDDING!

Keith L