miserable failure....(UPDATEd update)

DGraber460 at aol.com DGraber460 at aol.com
Wed Jun 29 10:30:59 EDT 2005


 
 
In a message dated 6/29/2005 6:07:12 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
audicted42 at gmail.com writes:

Huw  nailed it(thanks Huw!), new oxs and cat installed last PM, mixture
is all  happy now. Now back to my original question, where is the 0 for
tdc  supposed to line up in the window for ignition timing? Just need  a
reference point to start from(who knows where it was from the  PO).
Also, is there an easy trick to get those "donut" seals at either  end
of the cat to seal tight?(mmm donuts....) Even with new hardware  and
new seals I've still got a small leak by the downpipe.

TIA  
Brendan

On 6/25/05, Huw Powell <audi at humanspeakers.com>  wrote:
> 
> > checked the dpr current, 10mA no matter how i  adjust the set screw. it
> > does go up (and down as the engine is  revved maybe .60mA on the up
> > swing, maybe -50mA on the down.I  confirmed the the 02 is working,
> > reads .54-.55V @idle,   varies if i rev the engine. The dpr current not
> > moving at all at  idle wories me, likely that the ecu temp sender is
> > bad(the one in  the bottom of the neck at the head)? any
> > reccomendations to  confirm?
> 
> Your OXS is not working - its output, and the dpr  current, should both
> vary continuously at warm idle.  It may not  be bad, if the wiring to it
> has a problem.  The half volt you see  at its connector is a reference
> level coming from the ECU.
>  
> --
> Huw Powell
> 
>  http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi
> 
>  http://www.humanthoughts.org/
> 


-- 
"To err is human, to  repent divine; to persist devilish." -Ben  Franklin
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I take a wire wheel to the surfaces and donuts every time I have them  apart 
to get rid of surface irregularities and corrosion that would cause leaks.  
Seems to work for me.
HTH
 
Dennis
Denver



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